====================
Thursday 29 April
=================
Berlin . . . to Frankfurt . . .
Sunny and clear.
Bye bye to fellow from Hamburg during a solid breakfast. Of all the places that have offered breakfast in the morning, this place has substantial food. So my tag along pastries may not be needed for awhile.
I make it to the train. Large group of kids traveling as part of their school program. Teachers take refuge with me.
We pass a lot of flat farms. Lots of rape seed. In bloom now. Bright yellow. It is used to make bio-diesel here. Then toward Frankfurt, it gets hilly.
I make good time to Frankfurt. So I have time to explore northward. On to Bad Nauheim. Where my Grandfather was held prisoner in an old run down Hotel at the start of World War II. He was picked up along with a bunch of other diplomats on December 9, 1941. Held for about 2 and a half years. Then exchanged out. So from the information my mom sent me, he was held at the Jeschkes Grand hotel.
No one I talk with in Bad Nauheim knows of the place. So either it doesn't exists. Or its name has been changed. Likely it is gone, since it was old and run down and had closed before 1941. The heat didn't work.
I like the town. It is very laid back. Grassy parks with expansive lawns and nice shade trees. Each of the park benches has its own awning - candy stripe red. Quaint. People strolling around - not walking - ambling. Many have ice cream cones. Lots of seniors and kids. Small groups spread out on the lawn, chatting or picnicking. Some playing gentle games for amusement. Seems like a scene from some of the paintings I have seen.
Spas and baths seems to abound. Fountains spew the local natural mineral water. Rusty red.
I like the architecture here. One place is dated 1906. So it was built right during my favorite period. It shows. In the stained glass windows, mosaic floors, and all the custom detailing that was designed to go together. Flower garlands are everywhere - in bas relief on the sides of the buildings, in the stained glass. Gives everything a very verdant feels - alive and growing.
The houses have slate roofs. And iron grill railings. Tree lined avenues. Nice late Victorian look. There is even a castle in the distance. And the rhododendrons are in bloom here. Seems early to me, compared to home.
The streetlights are embedded with blobs of opal glass. Nice touch.
So if I ever get back here, I will be tempted to stay at one of these places - for rejuvenation - rest and relaxation. Spa time. My choices - "Bad und Jugenstil" or Hess. Staatsbad. Nice courtyards.
Well time to head back south. Meeting up with Friederike and Peter after 6 pm.
I get there fine, after getting off the train one stop too soon (Frankfurt West, instead of Frankfurt Main). The local U-bahn took me the rest of the way. And I actually remembered how to get there. Felt like a home coming. By degrees.
I started out in Frankfurt. And I end up in Frankfurt. I call it a sandwich trip. It is nice to end with something known and familiar. So I can say good bye.
We go out to dinner at a place that serves local Frankfurt specialties. Peter has a pair of real franfurters - long and thin. I try brisket with this local herb sauce - bright green - fresh and flavorful. And apple wine. Very dry. And we try a bread pudding type dessert with the Frankfurt white sauce. A first try for Friederike. After being here for 10 years. So I feel good that she now has had a chance to try the local fare - to be a tourist in her own town. Maybe something fun to try at home like that.
Somehow Peter and I get on the topic of Uma Thurman. He liked a film she was in. I asked if he had ever seen her in "Even the Cowgirls Get the Blues". He hadn't heard of it. Directed by Gus Van Sant - our local Portland eclectic guy. So I recommend it - and the book. Couldn't remember who wrote it. But later looked it up - Tom Robbins. I can't believe this hasn't been translated. But from the internet, it didn't appear to be.
Later I find out that it was translated to German - with the title "Sissy, . . ." something. So that is good.
So my big loop is complete - Frankfurt, Switzerland, Italy, Vienna, Prague, Berlin, Frankfurt. That followed my initial unplanned mini-loop - Frankfurt, Munsingen, Ulm, Munich, Rothenberg, Frankfurt. One mini-loop remains - Frankfurt, Munsingen, Frankfurt. So it too feels like a nice travel sandwich - completion. And a way to say goodbye . . . to a land that has hosted me so well.
I can't wait for the bretzels in the morning!
With fresh local butter.
Nite nite.
=============
A fool's journey
Monday, May 17, 2004
=================
Wednesday 28 April
==================
Berlin . . .
Sunny, cool, and clear today. Looks like it might even be hot later. I put my jacket away.
Oops, there are bicycle paths on the sidewalk. I wander in front of a bike in the bike only lane. Unexpected by both. No collision.
National Gallery today - Gemadegalerie. Thee are so many painting here out of context. They are from old churches. They seem out of place on a museum wall. They are not meant to be in a gallery.
I go to the Arts and Crafts Museum next door. Almost no one here. And the staff is smoking. In the museum! Porcelain, silver, pottery, furniture, jewelry. All in German.
Then I find the crowd. There is a loaner exhibit in town. From the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art in New York City which is being remodeled at this time. So 200 paintings are loaned out to Berlin. Lucky to see. And I find it nice to revisit these paintings after so many years. I last saw most of them when I was 17.
Of course, my favorite pieces are sculptures - five busts by Matisse. And a piece by Umberto Boccioni. I like the Matisse sculpture better than his paintings. The sculptures help me see what he was expressing in the paintings. With the added dimension, it makes more sense to me.
I find out the hard way that is AGAINST THE RULES to write anything down about the exhibit. Seems very strange to me. No reason given that I can understand anyway. All I can do is comply. Seems like police state mentality combined with American paranoia (since it is after all an American exhibit).
Next I go to the Deutscher Dom - an old church that now has a political exhibit in it. Shows 100 years of German political history. From the monarchy through re-unification. I get kicked out at closing.
Turkish dinner calls again. I get the traditional and popular kebap sandwich with hot sauce. With a dark wheat beer. Rice pudding for dessert.
On the bus ride home, I see diplomat activity at Schloss Bellevue. Barricades, mounted horse patrols. Police escorts. More to do with visiting Americans?
I go to the train station. To check out the train schedule for tomorrow. And to stock up on pastries for my travels to Frankfurt tomorrow.
The peach cake is great (topped with peach halves in gel). I have cherry cake and almond cake in reserve!
By the way, Berlin is named for a bear too, just like Bern.
So now the journey home begins. Berlin to Vancouver in five days.
Nite nite.
===========
Wednesday 28 April
==================
Berlin . . .
Sunny, cool, and clear today. Looks like it might even be hot later. I put my jacket away.
Oops, there are bicycle paths on the sidewalk. I wander in front of a bike in the bike only lane. Unexpected by both. No collision.
National Gallery today - Gemadegalerie. Thee are so many painting here out of context. They are from old churches. They seem out of place on a museum wall. They are not meant to be in a gallery.
I go to the Arts and Crafts Museum next door. Almost no one here. And the staff is smoking. In the museum! Porcelain, silver, pottery, furniture, jewelry. All in German.
Then I find the crowd. There is a loaner exhibit in town. From the Metropolitan Museum of Modern Art in New York City which is being remodeled at this time. So 200 paintings are loaned out to Berlin. Lucky to see. And I find it nice to revisit these paintings after so many years. I last saw most of them when I was 17.
Of course, my favorite pieces are sculptures - five busts by Matisse. And a piece by Umberto Boccioni. I like the Matisse sculpture better than his paintings. The sculptures help me see what he was expressing in the paintings. With the added dimension, it makes more sense to me.
I find out the hard way that is AGAINST THE RULES to write anything down about the exhibit. Seems very strange to me. No reason given that I can understand anyway. All I can do is comply. Seems like police state mentality combined with American paranoia (since it is after all an American exhibit).
Next I go to the Deutscher Dom - an old church that now has a political exhibit in it. Shows 100 years of German political history. From the monarchy through re-unification. I get kicked out at closing.
Turkish dinner calls again. I get the traditional and popular kebap sandwich with hot sauce. With a dark wheat beer. Rice pudding for dessert.
On the bus ride home, I see diplomat activity at Schloss Bellevue. Barricades, mounted horse patrols. Police escorts. More to do with visiting Americans?
I go to the train station. To check out the train schedule for tomorrow. And to stock up on pastries for my travels to Frankfurt tomorrow.
The peach cake is great (topped with peach halves in gel). I have cherry cake and almond cake in reserve!
By the way, Berlin is named for a bear too, just like Bern.
So now the journey home begins. Berlin to Vancouver in five days.
Nite nite.
===========
=======================
Tuesday 27 April
================
Berlin . . .
Overcast and cool today.
My feet are sore; lots of walking yesterday, especially with having to get around the bomb scare. Also, I found out that some diplomat is at Schloss Belvedere. Likely a US diplomat.
Museum Island is today's plan.
Alte (Old) National Gallery is my first stop. They have a great sculpture gallery. Including Rodin's Man & His Thought from 1899.
Pergamon is second stop. They have a reconstructed Greek temple and market gate. Also Ishtar gate from Babylon, 500 something BC.
So this monument art goes back to Greeks and Egyptians from way BC. A show of prestige. So it comes through in the grave monuments and churches of more modern times.
The Old Antiquities Museum has a whole series of ancient Greek marble figures and architecture. From 2700 BC - Cyaladies, then Minoan, and later Mycenaean.
There is a special exhibit here, of French art. Including some works borrowed from the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC. Sorry to sister Laura Lee who was just in DC. So I am lucky to see some works here by Francois Boucher and Fragonard's Young Girl Reading from 1772. This painting just glows. With yellow, and contrasting lilac. Broad strokes. I like this style. And it is good too see this painting as I once did a collage copy. This style of work made it a good choice. No need for details. It comes alive as is.
I scoot over to another area hoping to catch the museum with the dinosaur open. No such luck. It closes early anyway.
Did I mention that Berlin is the fourth most populous Turkish city in the world? So I decide on Turkish food for dinner and venture off to that area of town. Get some pastry with pistachios and almonds. And for dinner I find a place called Hasir. Red lentil soup. Yogurt drink. Lamb on a skewer. And for dessert, a pudding with pomegranate, nuts, and other unidentifiable ingredients. All excellent.
I find an internet cafe where they are going to open a non-smoking area in a few weeks. Adam who works there is a non-smoker too. I go ahead and try it out. Then I get surrounded. Three people light up. So I bail. Will have to post later when I find a better environment.
Lots of art today. More to see tomorrow. Nite nite.
==========
Tuesday 27 April
================
Berlin . . .
Overcast and cool today.
My feet are sore; lots of walking yesterday, especially with having to get around the bomb scare. Also, I found out that some diplomat is at Schloss Belvedere. Likely a US diplomat.
Museum Island is today's plan.
Alte (Old) National Gallery is my first stop. They have a great sculpture gallery. Including Rodin's Man & His Thought from 1899.
Pergamon is second stop. They have a reconstructed Greek temple and market gate. Also Ishtar gate from Babylon, 500 something BC.
So this monument art goes back to Greeks and Egyptians from way BC. A show of prestige. So it comes through in the grave monuments and churches of more modern times.
The Old Antiquities Museum has a whole series of ancient Greek marble figures and architecture. From 2700 BC - Cyaladies, then Minoan, and later Mycenaean.
There is a special exhibit here, of French art. Including some works borrowed from the National Gallery of Art in Washington DC. Sorry to sister Laura Lee who was just in DC. So I am lucky to see some works here by Francois Boucher and Fragonard's Young Girl Reading from 1772. This painting just glows. With yellow, and contrasting lilac. Broad strokes. I like this style. And it is good too see this painting as I once did a collage copy. This style of work made it a good choice. No need for details. It comes alive as is.
I scoot over to another area hoping to catch the museum with the dinosaur open. No such luck. It closes early anyway.
Did I mention that Berlin is the fourth most populous Turkish city in the world? So I decide on Turkish food for dinner and venture off to that area of town. Get some pastry with pistachios and almonds. And for dinner I find a place called Hasir. Red lentil soup. Yogurt drink. Lamb on a skewer. And for dessert, a pudding with pomegranate, nuts, and other unidentifiable ingredients. All excellent.
I find an internet cafe where they are going to open a non-smoking area in a few weeks. Adam who works there is a non-smoker too. I go ahead and try it out. Then I get surrounded. Three people light up. So I bail. Will have to post later when I find a better environment.
Lots of art today. More to see tomorrow. Nite nite.
==========
Thursday, May 13, 2004
===============
Monday 26 April
===============
Berlin . . .
Drizzle today. And surprise, I have sunburn from yesterday - on my throat - between clavicles. So now, I put sunscreen there too.
Today is walking tour day. Most museums are closed. So I explore the city, starting with East Berlin. It seems pretty desolate here. A feeling of emptiness. The buildings are just blocks with uniform windows. The only difference being their colors. They scream institutional. All without battleship gray.
Work is being done. I watch some guys installing paving stones. I wait to see how they are going to move these things - each one being about the size of a monopoly board and five inches thick. Well they use a hydraulic tractor that instead of having a clawed scoop on the front, it has a big suction cup. Suction on, then lift from above. Makes sense. Pry bars help with the adjusting.
I like the Neptune fountain here in front of the TV tower. So this too is a Soviet remnant. But unlike Rome, this square huge and is empty. Maybe it is too big or too exposed. There are sickle and wheat motifs to be found in the sculpture.
One thing I really like about the walk is the pedestrian lights - the walk and don't walk signals. They are cute. The don't walk sign is a pudgy red guy with both arms out. The walk sign is a green guy walking, from the side, with bent arm and leg. Reminds me of the monopoly man. Cute. I find out that these too are Soviet remnants. I like them. It is a nice clue to tell whether I am in what was East or West Berlin. And it is nice to see that there are good things worth saving from both parts.
This is public art at its best. Functional too. And in my opinion, it would be a crime to destroy. Should be a crime.
I go see the topography of terror which is a display near the old Gestapo building. A building which has been out of use for more than 50 years. This is near the only intact section of remaining Berlin Wall - the official Russian name was the anti-fascist protection wall, never mind that most everyone was trying to get out not in! I think the plan is to eventually house this exhibit in that building. Hopefully they add some English by then.
And the commercial Wall Museum is open. Lots of pictures and text. There is English and Russian. It is near Checkpoint Charlie.
I am riding the U-bahn (subway) and it is closed down. We all exit. Explanations are in German. I follow the crowd. We walk to the next station. Turns out there is a bomb threat at the Hilton. Streets are taped off. Search dogs are going down into the subway.
Speaking of bombs, two of the German guys who attempted to assassinate Hitler with a bomb where Rhodes Scholars. Both executed in 1945.
I find a favorite building in Berlin - and it is in East Berlin. It is the Friedrichstadtpalast. I think it is some kind of performance hall. People with tickets are getting in. My favorite part is the glass. These thick rectangular pieces of various colors are set into the walls. They stick out to various degrees so that adds to the pattern. And from inside, I can see that they let colored light through. So it adds to the interior as well as the exterior. Rob, I don't know if you saw this place during your architectural tour earlier this year. I'd say, for an architect, it's a must see. And since I like it, I wonder if it was built around 1900. If so, wouldn't it have been leveled by bombs? Maybe a great restoration. But since I think it is in East Berlin, that doesn't seem consistent with what else I see here. There's a story here.
I find the Oraninburger area. A big old tor here. Still looks bombed out. Not repaired. Looks like welder shops have camped out inside. Looks like a set from some sci-fi film after Armageddon.
I find Hackescher - a trendy sopping complex, complete with retail residential, and its own courtyards and plazas. Maybe this place is named for the guy who designed the cute walk lights? I don't know where I get that notion.
I want to partake in East Berlin and there are nice cafes here. I order asparagus soup, having learned the word a few nights ago - spargle. I am surprised. First, bread comes WITH butter. A first. And the soup comes white. So the asparagus here is white. I had seen some at the market, but wasn't sure it was asparagus. Like parsnips are not exactly white carrots. And the red beer (local brew) is excellent. It's a good thing I am not keeping track of the names, or I might just try to track them down upon getting home. I don't think it could be the same. Here, it is fresh from the tap, close to home. And the atmosphere helps. And maybe the long walk.
I got controlled on the subway. I thought he was a panhandler. Totally undercover. Everyone else responded, so I followed suit. My week pass with the 17 stamped on it did just fine. Come to think of it, he didn't look closely enough to see the 17 either. They smell guilt. And don't bother to really look at the ticket.
Then later on the ride home, it is off the u-bahn. Again, all in German. I act like a lemming again, and follow. Every one gets on a bus. We are taken two stations down. Then I follow everyone back down into the subway. This must be an after effect of the bomb scare.
So I get home just fine. Lots of walking today. Many neighborhoods. Time for rest.
Nite nite.
================
Monday 26 April
===============
Berlin . . .
Drizzle today. And surprise, I have sunburn from yesterday - on my throat - between clavicles. So now, I put sunscreen there too.
Today is walking tour day. Most museums are closed. So I explore the city, starting with East Berlin. It seems pretty desolate here. A feeling of emptiness. The buildings are just blocks with uniform windows. The only difference being their colors. They scream institutional. All without battleship gray.
Work is being done. I watch some guys installing paving stones. I wait to see how they are going to move these things - each one being about the size of a monopoly board and five inches thick. Well they use a hydraulic tractor that instead of having a clawed scoop on the front, it has a big suction cup. Suction on, then lift from above. Makes sense. Pry bars help with the adjusting.
I like the Neptune fountain here in front of the TV tower. So this too is a Soviet remnant. But unlike Rome, this square huge and is empty. Maybe it is too big or too exposed. There are sickle and wheat motifs to be found in the sculpture.
One thing I really like about the walk is the pedestrian lights - the walk and don't walk signals. They are cute. The don't walk sign is a pudgy red guy with both arms out. The walk sign is a green guy walking, from the side, with bent arm and leg. Reminds me of the monopoly man. Cute. I find out that these too are Soviet remnants. I like them. It is a nice clue to tell whether I am in what was East or West Berlin. And it is nice to see that there are good things worth saving from both parts.
This is public art at its best. Functional too. And in my opinion, it would be a crime to destroy. Should be a crime.
I go see the topography of terror which is a display near the old Gestapo building. A building which has been out of use for more than 50 years. This is near the only intact section of remaining Berlin Wall - the official Russian name was the anti-fascist protection wall, never mind that most everyone was trying to get out not in! I think the plan is to eventually house this exhibit in that building. Hopefully they add some English by then.
And the commercial Wall Museum is open. Lots of pictures and text. There is English and Russian. It is near Checkpoint Charlie.
I am riding the U-bahn (subway) and it is closed down. We all exit. Explanations are in German. I follow the crowd. We walk to the next station. Turns out there is a bomb threat at the Hilton. Streets are taped off. Search dogs are going down into the subway.
Speaking of bombs, two of the German guys who attempted to assassinate Hitler with a bomb where Rhodes Scholars. Both executed in 1945.
I find a favorite building in Berlin - and it is in East Berlin. It is the Friedrichstadtpalast. I think it is some kind of performance hall. People with tickets are getting in. My favorite part is the glass. These thick rectangular pieces of various colors are set into the walls. They stick out to various degrees so that adds to the pattern. And from inside, I can see that they let colored light through. So it adds to the interior as well as the exterior. Rob, I don't know if you saw this place during your architectural tour earlier this year. I'd say, for an architect, it's a must see. And since I like it, I wonder if it was built around 1900. If so, wouldn't it have been leveled by bombs? Maybe a great restoration. But since I think it is in East Berlin, that doesn't seem consistent with what else I see here. There's a story here.
I find the Oraninburger area. A big old tor here. Still looks bombed out. Not repaired. Looks like welder shops have camped out inside. Looks like a set from some sci-fi film after Armageddon.
I find Hackescher - a trendy sopping complex, complete with retail residential, and its own courtyards and plazas. Maybe this place is named for the guy who designed the cute walk lights? I don't know where I get that notion.
I want to partake in East Berlin and there are nice cafes here. I order asparagus soup, having learned the word a few nights ago - spargle. I am surprised. First, bread comes WITH butter. A first. And the soup comes white. So the asparagus here is white. I had seen some at the market, but wasn't sure it was asparagus. Like parsnips are not exactly white carrots. And the red beer (local brew) is excellent. It's a good thing I am not keeping track of the names, or I might just try to track them down upon getting home. I don't think it could be the same. Here, it is fresh from the tap, close to home. And the atmosphere helps. And maybe the long walk.
I got controlled on the subway. I thought he was a panhandler. Totally undercover. Everyone else responded, so I followed suit. My week pass with the 17 stamped on it did just fine. Come to think of it, he didn't look closely enough to see the 17 either. They smell guilt. And don't bother to really look at the ticket.
Then later on the ride home, it is off the u-bahn. Again, all in German. I act like a lemming again, and follow. Every one gets on a bus. We are taken two stations down. Then I follow everyone back down into the subway. This must be an after effect of the bomb scare.
So I get home just fine. Lots of walking today. Many neighborhoods. Time for rest.
Nite nite.
================
Wednesday, May 12, 2004
==============
Sunday 25 April
===============
Berlin . . .
Sunny, clear cool. I bring my jacket with me today. First time since Venice on the water. It is a great spring day. Lilacs are in bloom. And it is a warming day.
I get my museum pass at the Egyptian Museum, but then I start at a different one, since the Egyptian one is open on Mondays.
I start with the Picasso Museum across the street. In addition to all the Picasso, there is work by Klee, Matisse, and some Giacometti sculptures. I find out that Klee is actually a Czech who moved to Switzerland to escape the oppression. So not Swiss, but the Swiss adopted him so well, I thought that he was from Switzerland when I was there.
Next Museum - the Brohan - which is art nouveau! Including furniture. Even the drawer pulls are designed and made to fit the design.
Next stop - the Egyptian. WOW! Friederike, you were right. It is OK that I missed the Egyptian stuff in Munich.
The sculpture I like is from 1850 BC. Turns out to be the middle period. So I have a favorite period.
There is an arch inside the museum. It was puzzled together from foundation stones. Reconstructed. Long ago, there was an arch. Not as long ago, it was disassembled. The stone was re-used to make a foundation for another building. All went to ruin. Archaeologists came along thousands of years later. They disassembled the foundation and pieced the arch back together. Only a few stones were missing. And only a few were damaged as a result of reworking to make them fit in the foundation.
And the great part - I can see the workers marks on a few of the stones on the edges where the sides are exposed because the arch is no longer attached to the temple. These marks are not chiseled - they are drawn with some kind of maker - paint? And they have been preserved. All this time.
Another room has huge pillars. Each a single piece. With a palm motif. These are used to hold up the building today. So they are built in.
I like an old statue of a scribe. Highly revered profession. This one is from 2500 BC. The statue shows just the moment before action begins. So it is perpetually just about to move. A nice concept to use for a solid form. Gives it a life. It carries an expectation anyway. Skillful to have captured that. These people were masters. And it is apparent that the Greeks took this, and then the Romans. So the Egyptians do live on.
I like a dark green soap stone portrait bust. Mostly intact. Amazing for such a soft stone. And this is a true portrait - not as stylized as most Egyptian busts. SO there was a period where relative realism prevailed.
The famous bust of Queen Nefretti here is actually the sculptor's working model - made from plaster! And painted. This model was used as the reference for all the monumental works of her. The working model survives. Left on a shelf in his workshop. Abandoned when every cleared out of town. The building collapsed, and got buried in sand. Preserved for a long time. And discovered by archaeologists earlier this century. They even know the sculptors name.
I slip into one last museum before closing - vor und Frihgeschichte. I think this is for the local archeological finds. There is a small sculpture of a hand that is from 30,000 BC. And a goddess figure from 25,000 BC. Wow. Then I am booted out.
So now time to shop. Lots of nice antique stores in this area - near the summer palace - Charlottenberg. The I go back downtown to one of the shopping districts there - Kurfurstendamm. This was part of West Berlin. And it shows.
I find a nice dinner place here. And they bring some spread with my bread. This is a first. But no, it isn't butter - it is pork drippings! I try it. It is OK. Nothing to crave later though. I get the grilled variety plate - three kinds of meat (pork, ham, and beef), roasted potatoes, and mixed veggies (beans, broccoli, carrots, and mushrooms). I choose to sit outside. It is early, and there are no smokers yet. Halfway through I have to move. The local beer made right here at this restaurant is very good.
After dinner I go to Potzdammer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. It is the only remaining one of 14 from 1791. A symbol of the city. Then I go tour the Reichstag. It is open to the public until 10 pm. After tight security (my knives get through the scanner), we all get let inside. This is where there legislators meet. Below. Anyone can watch through the glass. And with a reservation, you can get into the chamber while in session.
I climb the dome. It is a new dome from when this place was burned in Hitler's day. Supposedly by the communists. But evidence points to Hitler who then blamed the communists and used the event to seize control. An as yet unsettled question of history. So Hilter ruled without ever officially stepping foot in this place. The old dome was square. The new one is round.
Hitler had the Linden trees cut down along the main drag in town. Part of his plan to make way for the new, and all the forthcoming monuments to victory. The populace was not pleased. SO even Hilter had to bow to popular sentiment. He had to replant the trees. So the ones I see today are about 70 years old. It is a nice symbol fro me - even dictators can be influenced by popular opinion. Something that is nice to be reminded of. Linden trees are a nice symbol for that. Now I wonder if they brought Linden Baum branches to their Palm Sunday services here?
I climb the dome. A spiral ramp. Around and around. At the top, people are hanging out. A few have picnic dinners. A lay back on the central round wide bench and gaze up at the dusky sky. All seems at peace. It is a quiet and reverent place. At peace with lots of history behind it.
This place is well designed. There is a sun visor inside the dome that follows the sun during the day. And the spiral ramp down is also one way. So no fighting uphill traffic. Lots of room. And one way.
It feels good to have visited here. A place in my family's history - my Grandfather to be specific. Plus my father lived here for a time as a kid (age 9 or so?). So those struggles resolved - with active participation from my kin and witnessing.
Resolved yes. These places are only echoes. They don't hold the power I thought they would. This is unexpected. And unexpectedly comforting. Here. Not forgotten. And things have moved on. Way on.
Nite nite.
================
Sunday 25 April
===============
Berlin . . .
Sunny, clear cool. I bring my jacket with me today. First time since Venice on the water. It is a great spring day. Lilacs are in bloom. And it is a warming day.
I get my museum pass at the Egyptian Museum, but then I start at a different one, since the Egyptian one is open on Mondays.
I start with the Picasso Museum across the street. In addition to all the Picasso, there is work by Klee, Matisse, and some Giacometti sculptures. I find out that Klee is actually a Czech who moved to Switzerland to escape the oppression. So not Swiss, but the Swiss adopted him so well, I thought that he was from Switzerland when I was there.
Next Museum - the Brohan - which is art nouveau! Including furniture. Even the drawer pulls are designed and made to fit the design.
Next stop - the Egyptian. WOW! Friederike, you were right. It is OK that I missed the Egyptian stuff in Munich.
The sculpture I like is from 1850 BC. Turns out to be the middle period. So I have a favorite period.
There is an arch inside the museum. It was puzzled together from foundation stones. Reconstructed. Long ago, there was an arch. Not as long ago, it was disassembled. The stone was re-used to make a foundation for another building. All went to ruin. Archaeologists came along thousands of years later. They disassembled the foundation and pieced the arch back together. Only a few stones were missing. And only a few were damaged as a result of reworking to make them fit in the foundation.
And the great part - I can see the workers marks on a few of the stones on the edges where the sides are exposed because the arch is no longer attached to the temple. These marks are not chiseled - they are drawn with some kind of maker - paint? And they have been preserved. All this time.
Another room has huge pillars. Each a single piece. With a palm motif. These are used to hold up the building today. So they are built in.
I like an old statue of a scribe. Highly revered profession. This one is from 2500 BC. The statue shows just the moment before action begins. So it is perpetually just about to move. A nice concept to use for a solid form. Gives it a life. It carries an expectation anyway. Skillful to have captured that. These people were masters. And it is apparent that the Greeks took this, and then the Romans. So the Egyptians do live on.
I like a dark green soap stone portrait bust. Mostly intact. Amazing for such a soft stone. And this is a true portrait - not as stylized as most Egyptian busts. SO there was a period where relative realism prevailed.
The famous bust of Queen Nefretti here is actually the sculptor's working model - made from plaster! And painted. This model was used as the reference for all the monumental works of her. The working model survives. Left on a shelf in his workshop. Abandoned when every cleared out of town. The building collapsed, and got buried in sand. Preserved for a long time. And discovered by archaeologists earlier this century. They even know the sculptors name.
I slip into one last museum before closing - vor und Frihgeschichte. I think this is for the local archeological finds. There is a small sculpture of a hand that is from 30,000 BC. And a goddess figure from 25,000 BC. Wow. Then I am booted out.
So now time to shop. Lots of nice antique stores in this area - near the summer palace - Charlottenberg. The I go back downtown to one of the shopping districts there - Kurfurstendamm. This was part of West Berlin. And it shows.
I find a nice dinner place here. And they bring some spread with my bread. This is a first. But no, it isn't butter - it is pork drippings! I try it. It is OK. Nothing to crave later though. I get the grilled variety plate - three kinds of meat (pork, ham, and beef), roasted potatoes, and mixed veggies (beans, broccoli, carrots, and mushrooms). I choose to sit outside. It is early, and there are no smokers yet. Halfway through I have to move. The local beer made right here at this restaurant is very good.
After dinner I go to Potzdammer Platz and the Brandenburg Gate. It is the only remaining one of 14 from 1791. A symbol of the city. Then I go tour the Reichstag. It is open to the public until 10 pm. After tight security (my knives get through the scanner), we all get let inside. This is where there legislators meet. Below. Anyone can watch through the glass. And with a reservation, you can get into the chamber while in session.
I climb the dome. It is a new dome from when this place was burned in Hitler's day. Supposedly by the communists. But evidence points to Hitler who then blamed the communists and used the event to seize control. An as yet unsettled question of history. So Hilter ruled without ever officially stepping foot in this place. The old dome was square. The new one is round.
Hitler had the Linden trees cut down along the main drag in town. Part of his plan to make way for the new, and all the forthcoming monuments to victory. The populace was not pleased. SO even Hilter had to bow to popular sentiment. He had to replant the trees. So the ones I see today are about 70 years old. It is a nice symbol fro me - even dictators can be influenced by popular opinion. Something that is nice to be reminded of. Linden trees are a nice symbol for that. Now I wonder if they brought Linden Baum branches to their Palm Sunday services here?
I climb the dome. A spiral ramp. Around and around. At the top, people are hanging out. A few have picnic dinners. A lay back on the central round wide bench and gaze up at the dusky sky. All seems at peace. It is a quiet and reverent place. At peace with lots of history behind it.
This place is well designed. There is a sun visor inside the dome that follows the sun during the day. And the spiral ramp down is also one way. So no fighting uphill traffic. Lots of room. And one way.
It feels good to have visited here. A place in my family's history - my Grandfather to be specific. Plus my father lived here for a time as a kid (age 9 or so?). So those struggles resolved - with active participation from my kin and witnessing.
Resolved yes. These places are only echoes. They don't hold the power I thought they would. This is unexpected. And unexpectedly comforting. Here. Not forgotten. And things have moved on. Way on.
Nite nite.
================
================
Saturday 24 April
=================
Prague . . . to Berlin . . .
Did I mention how generous they are here? I ask for an order of dumplings, and it is huge. I ask for one pastry, I get two. I ask for one stamp, I get two. I ask for one admission ticket, I get two. Either that, or I have an angel with me. Or maybe I look hungry?
Did I mention learning Czech? I got another lesson last night. A bit of a review and refresher course. Something along the lines of what words do you know? Which phrases are helpful? I added to my short list of essential phrases. And I got a bit of a surprise. According to my latest source, "va" means two. Not one. This explains a lot. It is funny and embarrassing. Silly tourist. No wonder I keep getting more than I want. I am asking for it. At least to those who are verbal and not visual. The visual go by my thumbs up (means one hear - not the index finger).
So I wonder Aaron, did I jot down the wrong word for one? I didn't have "iren" for one on my list at all from our quick lesson. Or did you get it wrong? Or was this a practical tourist joke? Something I can remember, and maybe pull someday.
It rained last night. It is cloudy and cool.
Well, I make the train, after breakfast and goodbyes. Not with a lot of time to spare. I does help to know the departure time in advance.
I make a quick search for a bakery at the train station. None is apparent. So I actually look in at a souvenir stand. And I do get rid of my last krowns, except one (IREN), which becomes a souvenir.
On the train ride, there is flat farm land, scattered towns, hills, and deciduous trees. That are in bloom. I see crags and castle ruins along the river. And some big stone houses on some hill tops that look like they were built there in place of an old castle.
I am in a no smoking car. At least the signs on both ends say so. So when some people light up, I say please, and they quickly extinguish. No one else even seemed to notice or care. They extinguish in the available ash trays. Now that is confusing. Maybe it isn't non-smoking? Now I am not so sure.
Then later, a different group emerges form their six seat enclosed room and lights up. I say please. At first they don't understand. Then they say they asked and it was OK. I say they didn't ask me. Please go to the very next car - the dining car that is smoking. Very reluctant. Meanwhile it is now too smoky here. So I go to first class. And sit in the smoking area, where no one is smoking! Go figure.
Later I find out that the train companies have been asked to remove ash trays from non-smoking areas. And so far with not quite complete results. Given time, I hope it changes. There is evidence that there is a trend to designate smoking areas. At some stations they now have designated smoking areas on the platforms. But no where on the platform does it say non-smoking. So many butts still get tossed smoldering onto he tracks there. But it seems to be improving. At least some are smoking at the designated area and are actually using the ash trays there.
I get to Berlin. It is rainy - a drizzle - just like home.
First meal is curry wurst. Basically a bratwurst with curry powder and lots of ketchup. I decline the roll that comes with it and get a bretzel instead. Nothing like the Bavarian ones, but it has been too long and I need my fix. Dessert is a peach almond coffee cake. Nice bakeries here. Many to choose from.
I go ahead and get a week long transit pass. When I validate it on the bus, it is stamped with 17 Sat. Which is confusing because it is the 24th. The 17th was last week. With the language barrier I can't get any satisfactory explanation. And the front desk guys think it is a problem. Don't want to get caught with an invalid pass. So after I check in, I go on an orientation ride on a double -decker bus. Down the center of town. The train station is at one end. So I go ask the German guy who sold me the pass. He explains it is fine. From what I gather, the 17 is for the week, not the day. So all is OK.
And the best part? I usually have to show my pass when boarding, but no one even looks closely enough to see the 17!
I stock up on pastries - yes following the two rule. A sour cherry cake - kirsch schnit - that is half cherries in a clear gel on top. And an almond topped custard bar in a pan. Both excellent choices I later find out upon consumption - they turn into desserts after getting home from night sights.
On the orientation tour, I see a bombed out church. It remains that way by design. As a reminder and memorial. I see this tall column in the park. It was moved by Hitler. It has a gilded angel on top. Some victory monument. The Reichtag. And then the Eastern part of Berlin. It looks very different here. Bleaker - more uniform. Older. And apparent un-repaired bomb damage. I try a Belgian kirsch bier (cherry beer). I like it.
Then off to a recommended shopping area for some likely good places for dinner. I find some very nice shops. Lots of antique stores.
At dinner I try the Berliner weis bier with syrup. It is green. And a bit sweet. I later find out that there are two flavors - green and red. The green is made from waldmeister (forest master), a plant that grows in the shady forests here.
Dinner is excellent - grilled lamb (nice and rare), potatoes, green beans, tomatoes. Fresh, well prepared. There is a no smoking section! So I seat myself there (seat yourself is the norm here). There are no ash trays out. So this works great until some smokers choose to sit in the same area for the fresh clear air - and then they bring over ash trays from the smoking area. There is no specific no smoking designation. But this is progress. At least there is an area that is intended. So given years, I think things will shift here too. In the meantime, Marlboro is selling lots of smokes. And the smokers share second hand quite generously.
I actually find my way home quite easily. So I guess I am oriented. At least enough to come and go. And to get to the different parts of town that are of interest. The city doesn't seem as big as I had expected. Five days will be plenty. No rush.
Dessert while watching a football (soccer) game. Then to bed.
Nite nite.
===============
Saturday 24 April
=================
Prague . . . to Berlin . . .
Did I mention how generous they are here? I ask for an order of dumplings, and it is huge. I ask for one pastry, I get two. I ask for one stamp, I get two. I ask for one admission ticket, I get two. Either that, or I have an angel with me. Or maybe I look hungry?
Did I mention learning Czech? I got another lesson last night. A bit of a review and refresher course. Something along the lines of what words do you know? Which phrases are helpful? I added to my short list of essential phrases. And I got a bit of a surprise. According to my latest source, "va" means two. Not one. This explains a lot. It is funny and embarrassing. Silly tourist. No wonder I keep getting more than I want. I am asking for it. At least to those who are verbal and not visual. The visual go by my thumbs up (means one hear - not the index finger).
So I wonder Aaron, did I jot down the wrong word for one? I didn't have "iren" for one on my list at all from our quick lesson. Or did you get it wrong? Or was this a practical tourist joke? Something I can remember, and maybe pull someday.
It rained last night. It is cloudy and cool.
Well, I make the train, after breakfast and goodbyes. Not with a lot of time to spare. I does help to know the departure time in advance.
I make a quick search for a bakery at the train station. None is apparent. So I actually look in at a souvenir stand. And I do get rid of my last krowns, except one (IREN), which becomes a souvenir.
On the train ride, there is flat farm land, scattered towns, hills, and deciduous trees. That are in bloom. I see crags and castle ruins along the river. And some big stone houses on some hill tops that look like they were built there in place of an old castle.
I am in a no smoking car. At least the signs on both ends say so. So when some people light up, I say please, and they quickly extinguish. No one else even seemed to notice or care. They extinguish in the available ash trays. Now that is confusing. Maybe it isn't non-smoking? Now I am not so sure.
Then later, a different group emerges form their six seat enclosed room and lights up. I say please. At first they don't understand. Then they say they asked and it was OK. I say they didn't ask me. Please go to the very next car - the dining car that is smoking. Very reluctant. Meanwhile it is now too smoky here. So I go to first class. And sit in the smoking area, where no one is smoking! Go figure.
Later I find out that the train companies have been asked to remove ash trays from non-smoking areas. And so far with not quite complete results. Given time, I hope it changes. There is evidence that there is a trend to designate smoking areas. At some stations they now have designated smoking areas on the platforms. But no where on the platform does it say non-smoking. So many butts still get tossed smoldering onto he tracks there. But it seems to be improving. At least some are smoking at the designated area and are actually using the ash trays there.
I get to Berlin. It is rainy - a drizzle - just like home.
First meal is curry wurst. Basically a bratwurst with curry powder and lots of ketchup. I decline the roll that comes with it and get a bretzel instead. Nothing like the Bavarian ones, but it has been too long and I need my fix. Dessert is a peach almond coffee cake. Nice bakeries here. Many to choose from.
I go ahead and get a week long transit pass. When I validate it on the bus, it is stamped with 17 Sat. Which is confusing because it is the 24th. The 17th was last week. With the language barrier I can't get any satisfactory explanation. And the front desk guys think it is a problem. Don't want to get caught with an invalid pass. So after I check in, I go on an orientation ride on a double -decker bus. Down the center of town. The train station is at one end. So I go ask the German guy who sold me the pass. He explains it is fine. From what I gather, the 17 is for the week, not the day. So all is OK.
And the best part? I usually have to show my pass when boarding, but no one even looks closely enough to see the 17!
I stock up on pastries - yes following the two rule. A sour cherry cake - kirsch schnit - that is half cherries in a clear gel on top. And an almond topped custard bar in a pan. Both excellent choices I later find out upon consumption - they turn into desserts after getting home from night sights.
On the orientation tour, I see a bombed out church. It remains that way by design. As a reminder and memorial. I see this tall column in the park. It was moved by Hitler. It has a gilded angel on top. Some victory monument. The Reichtag. And then the Eastern part of Berlin. It looks very different here. Bleaker - more uniform. Older. And apparent un-repaired bomb damage. I try a Belgian kirsch bier (cherry beer). I like it.
Then off to a recommended shopping area for some likely good places for dinner. I find some very nice shops. Lots of antique stores.
At dinner I try the Berliner weis bier with syrup. It is green. And a bit sweet. I later find out that there are two flavors - green and red. The green is made from waldmeister (forest master), a plant that grows in the shady forests here.
Dinner is excellent - grilled lamb (nice and rare), potatoes, green beans, tomatoes. Fresh, well prepared. There is a no smoking section! So I seat myself there (seat yourself is the norm here). There are no ash trays out. So this works great until some smokers choose to sit in the same area for the fresh clear air - and then they bring over ash trays from the smoking area. There is no specific no smoking designation. But this is progress. At least there is an area that is intended. So given years, I think things will shift here too. In the meantime, Marlboro is selling lots of smokes. And the smokers share second hand quite generously.
I actually find my way home quite easily. So I guess I am oriented. At least enough to come and go. And to get to the different parts of town that are of interest. The city doesn't seem as big as I had expected. Five days will be plenty. No rush.
Dessert while watching a football (soccer) game. Then to bed.
Nite nite.
===============
Sunday, May 09, 2004
===============
Friday 23 April
=========
Prague . . .
Sunny today, with a light breeze.
I go into town and soak up the ambiance. Today is hang time. I get a pastry here and there. Meet Stephan from Germany. The Denmark crowd left yesterday.
Did I mention the beer consumption here? The average consumption per person per year is 300 liters. That is for every man, woman, and child. I do not know if the tourists' consumption is netted out of the statistic somehow. If not, I am adding to the stats today. I try a local dark beer. Has a Celtic name. But it is brewed locally. I people watch in the main square. Near the spot by the side of a church where 27 were executed for rebelling against the Roman Catholic church. This was led by a guy named Hess. His followers are Hessites. He preceded Martin Luther by about 100 years. There are 27 marble crosses embedded in the side walk. Opposition was killed off by the ruling Hapsburgs who were all for the Catholic Church. So believe or die. Doesn't sound like much of a choice to me. Early Catholics who suffered similar fates became Saints. I don't think Hess has been made a saint yet.
Religion and politics were tightly bound up together. Power lay with the church. Rulers tried to impose religious beliefs. Sometimes, like Constantine, when the tide was strong enough, the ruler converted to gain the support of a strong constituency. Everyone claims to have God on his side. And many ungodly things are done. This connection is more apparent here with the history. Supposedly, at home, church and state are separate. But I see there are still influences and connections. So when things are done in the name of religion, it will be important to validate that these religiously justified beliefs and actions do not contradict the very tenets of the claimed beliefs.
I wonder how it is that we as a nation tend to ignore our own ethnic cleansing of the natives. We wage war against similar atrocities now. What a difference 150 years make! Lets hope we do a better job of owning up to our own inglorious past.
Well, I don't mean for this to get political. But all these sights and history culminate in some added perspective and understanding. It doesn't come from reading history. As that is dominated by the winners perspective. It is very meaningful to run across these remnants of history, and piece them all together. See what they add up to. And of course, there are many events that have left no visible traces for us tourists. But piecing a picture together of those clues that are left brings some deeper understanding for me.
So, is hang time and reflection a good thing? I will let you decide.
I go wandering. And the sidewalks roll. No, not from the beer. The cobbles underfoot undulate over time, so instead of being this flat sidewalk, it has rises and valleys. Nothing extreme enough to trip over. I like it.
I find a market area near the main square. A couple of guys are minting coins. Heating slugs, putting them one at a time into the die, and then giving it a hard hammer with a sledge. Then hiss, into the cooling water bucket. Fresh produce here too. Very fresh. Don't know how local it would be, since it is early spring, but this stuff can't have come too far.
Very creative beggars here in the square. One guy is fishing through a sewer grate. Curious about what he is using for bait, or what he's got on the line? Put a coin in his cup. Then there is the guy with one arm. Curious that he is wearing such a heavy coat on such a warm day. And very revealing to see him surreptitiously pour the excess coins from the cup in his exposed hand into another hand reaching out from under his coat, which then transfers the booty to his pocket. Some coin in the cup prompts others. Too many, and the flow decreases.
Pastries today were good - apple filled, poppy seed and plum filled, and a soft cheese, poppy and cherry combination.
I head south for dinner. I headed east last night and fared well. I expect I may have good luck wandering in another direction. I have 298 krowns left plus 8 more for the subway to the train station in the morning. I walk and walk. And wander. And I eventually get lost. Kind of an industrial area with high rise apartment buildings. No open restaurants. Two hours of walking. And it starts to rain. And then rain harder. Instead of heading out on this quest, it now seems like it would have made more sense just to go next door again. Like the first night in town.
Then I run across a tram track. It is likely this goes back to town, one way or the other. So I check the map at the tram stop. Yes, it appears that it does go back into town. So I find a small shop. Yes, they sell tram tickets. With sign language and pointing I manage to get a 90 minute pass. And I go wait for the tram. This late at night, they don't come by that often. Then I realize I will need a ticket for the morning too. So I go back and get one of those. Then back to the tram stop. One eventually shows up.
On the ride into town, we pass all kinds of promising looking restaurants. So this makes sense. The places that are open are along the tram way. So next time I wander off, I might try following the tracks. Then I wont' get lost. And I might have a better chance of finding something open. So after passing a place that looks busy and is serving dinner, I jump off the tram. And walk back to the restaurant.
My last Prague supper is again Czech. Mmm good. Cheese stuffed pork loin, potato puffs. And to top it off, blueberry pancakes with cottage cheese. I think the blue berries are really currants. The pancakes are not at all like ours. Chewy and thick. And the cottage cheese is dry and crumbly.
On the way home, I discover parts of the old town wall still standing. And the rain gets heavier.
Home kind of late. It was a long walk. I am in time to say goodbye to the Stephan from Amsterdam. One of the 5 I had dinner with the first night. We all depart tomorrow. After a good week in Prague.
Nite nite. And yes, I already have my subway ticket for the morning. I know the train schedule from when I got my departure ticket on the first day in town. And I have a place to stay in Berlin. Reserved via the internet from Prague. So tomorrow is pretty well set. It will be fun to get rid of my remaining krowns. Maybe there will be a nice bakery . . . .
========
Friday 23 April
=========
Prague . . .
Sunny today, with a light breeze.
I go into town and soak up the ambiance. Today is hang time. I get a pastry here and there. Meet Stephan from Germany. The Denmark crowd left yesterday.
Did I mention the beer consumption here? The average consumption per person per year is 300 liters. That is for every man, woman, and child. I do not know if the tourists' consumption is netted out of the statistic somehow. If not, I am adding to the stats today. I try a local dark beer. Has a Celtic name. But it is brewed locally. I people watch in the main square. Near the spot by the side of a church where 27 were executed for rebelling against the Roman Catholic church. This was led by a guy named Hess. His followers are Hessites. He preceded Martin Luther by about 100 years. There are 27 marble crosses embedded in the side walk. Opposition was killed off by the ruling Hapsburgs who were all for the Catholic Church. So believe or die. Doesn't sound like much of a choice to me. Early Catholics who suffered similar fates became Saints. I don't think Hess has been made a saint yet.
Religion and politics were tightly bound up together. Power lay with the church. Rulers tried to impose religious beliefs. Sometimes, like Constantine, when the tide was strong enough, the ruler converted to gain the support of a strong constituency. Everyone claims to have God on his side. And many ungodly things are done. This connection is more apparent here with the history. Supposedly, at home, church and state are separate. But I see there are still influences and connections. So when things are done in the name of religion, it will be important to validate that these religiously justified beliefs and actions do not contradict the very tenets of the claimed beliefs.
I wonder how it is that we as a nation tend to ignore our own ethnic cleansing of the natives. We wage war against similar atrocities now. What a difference 150 years make! Lets hope we do a better job of owning up to our own inglorious past.
Well, I don't mean for this to get political. But all these sights and history culminate in some added perspective and understanding. It doesn't come from reading history. As that is dominated by the winners perspective. It is very meaningful to run across these remnants of history, and piece them all together. See what they add up to. And of course, there are many events that have left no visible traces for us tourists. But piecing a picture together of those clues that are left brings some deeper understanding for me.
So, is hang time and reflection a good thing? I will let you decide.
I go wandering. And the sidewalks roll. No, not from the beer. The cobbles underfoot undulate over time, so instead of being this flat sidewalk, it has rises and valleys. Nothing extreme enough to trip over. I like it.
I find a market area near the main square. A couple of guys are minting coins. Heating slugs, putting them one at a time into the die, and then giving it a hard hammer with a sledge. Then hiss, into the cooling water bucket. Fresh produce here too. Very fresh. Don't know how local it would be, since it is early spring, but this stuff can't have come too far.
Very creative beggars here in the square. One guy is fishing through a sewer grate. Curious about what he is using for bait, or what he's got on the line? Put a coin in his cup. Then there is the guy with one arm. Curious that he is wearing such a heavy coat on such a warm day. And very revealing to see him surreptitiously pour the excess coins from the cup in his exposed hand into another hand reaching out from under his coat, which then transfers the booty to his pocket. Some coin in the cup prompts others. Too many, and the flow decreases.
Pastries today were good - apple filled, poppy seed and plum filled, and a soft cheese, poppy and cherry combination.
I head south for dinner. I headed east last night and fared well. I expect I may have good luck wandering in another direction. I have 298 krowns left plus 8 more for the subway to the train station in the morning. I walk and walk. And wander. And I eventually get lost. Kind of an industrial area with high rise apartment buildings. No open restaurants. Two hours of walking. And it starts to rain. And then rain harder. Instead of heading out on this quest, it now seems like it would have made more sense just to go next door again. Like the first night in town.
Then I run across a tram track. It is likely this goes back to town, one way or the other. So I check the map at the tram stop. Yes, it appears that it does go back into town. So I find a small shop. Yes, they sell tram tickets. With sign language and pointing I manage to get a 90 minute pass. And I go wait for the tram. This late at night, they don't come by that often. Then I realize I will need a ticket for the morning too. So I go back and get one of those. Then back to the tram stop. One eventually shows up.
On the ride into town, we pass all kinds of promising looking restaurants. So this makes sense. The places that are open are along the tram way. So next time I wander off, I might try following the tracks. Then I wont' get lost. And I might have a better chance of finding something open. So after passing a place that looks busy and is serving dinner, I jump off the tram. And walk back to the restaurant.
My last Prague supper is again Czech. Mmm good. Cheese stuffed pork loin, potato puffs. And to top it off, blueberry pancakes with cottage cheese. I think the blue berries are really currants. The pancakes are not at all like ours. Chewy and thick. And the cottage cheese is dry and crumbly.
On the way home, I discover parts of the old town wall still standing. And the rain gets heavier.
Home kind of late. It was a long walk. I am in time to say goodbye to the Stephan from Amsterdam. One of the 5 I had dinner with the first night. We all depart tomorrow. After a good week in Prague.
Nite nite. And yes, I already have my subway ticket for the morning. I know the train schedule from when I got my departure ticket on the first day in town. And I have a place to stay in Berlin. Reserved via the internet from Prague. So tomorrow is pretty well set. It will be fun to get rid of my remaining krowns. Maybe there will be a nice bakery . . . .
========
================
Thursday 22 April
============
Prague . . .
Sunny and cool, and warming - the sun feels strong.
On the way in to town, I stop by the Natural History Museum. No strike today. Opens at 9 am. They have a great mineral specimen collection - rooms and rooms. Too bad all the text is in Czech only. I also like the archeology and zoology collections. The best part - paleontology. I see skeletons of two different large creatures that seem out of this world. One that is elephant sized has tusks that point straight down. The other bison sized creature has two big front bottom teeth that point straight down. Looks like a serious digger. No rooting around with a soft nose. These teeth are spades.
Then I go visit the Municipal Building again! Did I mention this is a must see? Each visit I discover more details. I have lunch in one of the restaurants there. By the inside fountain. Just for the ambiance. The beef noodle soup and the smoked salmon are pretty good too.
Then I head for the last unexplored sector of town. Down Paris Street (Pariska). The buildings seem to all be from the turn of the century. Each has its own motif, and as a whole, they go together. So this makes Prague my favorite for the architecture.
I also visit an old cemetery - it doesn't look like there would be room for any more headstones. There was some rule about not allowing any Jewish person to be buried outside of this one area, so the graves got stacked.
It turns into a hot day. T-shirt weather. The lilacs are blooming here. Of course I find some great bakeries in this new part of town. And did I mention how fresh the produce is here? Better than at home. I get some rugelach (poppy seed pastries) and some yellow watermelon, and I go sun bathe in an old square. It is a week day here. And even so, folks are taking time to enjoy the day.
On the meander home I smell some spicy blooms. Light, faint, can't quite get enough. The flowers are on a bush. The size of a small button. Yellow with five thin petals. The leaf is small too, in the shape of a baseball mitt - two thumbs on each side, and three fingers in the middle. I think this should be the national flower. Something to look up later. What is it?
I meet Martin from Berlin, where I am headed next. It is nice to know someone from where you are going. A kind of welcome.
Dinner matches my Czech fantasy - wild boar with apples and plums, mashed potatoes, mixed veggies, and a very good beer. And it wasn't that hard getting through the ordering process. And a few of us like minded souls took over a room in the back and made it non-smoking. So in the future, I will keep an eye out for those with books - readers and writers. And go sit with them.
Getting home is easy. This is a familiar town now. And it was nice to get to know it gently.
Nite nite.
===========
Thursday 22 April
============
Prague . . .
Sunny and cool, and warming - the sun feels strong.
On the way in to town, I stop by the Natural History Museum. No strike today. Opens at 9 am. They have a great mineral specimen collection - rooms and rooms. Too bad all the text is in Czech only. I also like the archeology and zoology collections. The best part - paleontology. I see skeletons of two different large creatures that seem out of this world. One that is elephant sized has tusks that point straight down. The other bison sized creature has two big front bottom teeth that point straight down. Looks like a serious digger. No rooting around with a soft nose. These teeth are spades.
Then I go visit the Municipal Building again! Did I mention this is a must see? Each visit I discover more details. I have lunch in one of the restaurants there. By the inside fountain. Just for the ambiance. The beef noodle soup and the smoked salmon are pretty good too.
Then I head for the last unexplored sector of town. Down Paris Street (Pariska). The buildings seem to all be from the turn of the century. Each has its own motif, and as a whole, they go together. So this makes Prague my favorite for the architecture.
I also visit an old cemetery - it doesn't look like there would be room for any more headstones. There was some rule about not allowing any Jewish person to be buried outside of this one area, so the graves got stacked.
It turns into a hot day. T-shirt weather. The lilacs are blooming here. Of course I find some great bakeries in this new part of town. And did I mention how fresh the produce is here? Better than at home. I get some rugelach (poppy seed pastries) and some yellow watermelon, and I go sun bathe in an old square. It is a week day here. And even so, folks are taking time to enjoy the day.
On the meander home I smell some spicy blooms. Light, faint, can't quite get enough. The flowers are on a bush. The size of a small button. Yellow with five thin petals. The leaf is small too, in the shape of a baseball mitt - two thumbs on each side, and three fingers in the middle. I think this should be the national flower. Something to look up later. What is it?
I meet Martin from Berlin, where I am headed next. It is nice to know someone from where you are going. A kind of welcome.
Dinner matches my Czech fantasy - wild boar with apples and plums, mashed potatoes, mixed veggies, and a very good beer. And it wasn't that hard getting through the ordering process. And a few of us like minded souls took over a room in the back and made it non-smoking. So in the future, I will keep an eye out for those with books - readers and writers. And go sit with them.
Getting home is easy. This is a familiar town now. And it was nice to get to know it gently.
Nite nite.
===========
Saturday, May 08, 2004
==============
Wednesday 21 April
=============
Prague . . .
Sunny, clear, cool morning.
I pass by the Natural History Museum on my way into town. It is not recommended by my guide book. But I decide to give it a quick tour anyway. Want to see what is has to offer. Sometimes I like things that the guide book doesn't. Will only take a moment to find out, since I am here.
Well, I guess not. They are on strike! No, I am not back in Italy. I heard that somewhere, when the transportation workers are on strike, they all go to work, and provide the services, but they refuse all fares. Would be nice if that were true here. Then they could have their strike, and I could get in. Instead it seems that they get the morning off, and I have to change plans. Oh well.
Down the main drag, I drop in to the Europa Hotel again. To give the interior details a more detailed looking over. The details that add up to ambiance.
Next stop, the post office, since I see a sign. See what kinds of stamps they have to offer. Did I mention that Alfonso Mucha designed the stamps and the currency way in 1918 or so when Czechoslovakia was formed? Hoping they might still have some in print. No such luck. But the post office itself is grand. I like these public buildings here. The inside of the building is a vast courtyard. There are art nouveau wall paintings. Makes me want to stay and hang out for a while.
They too have a pick a number system. Punch in 1-9 depending on the service you want, and out comes a number. Then each service window displays which number is being served. And there is a master display that shows which window is serving your number, and it points you right or left. There are benches. People are waiting - hanging out. It seems like a break, not a wait. No lines here. Something to import.
Nice thing, I even find English instructions for this system. On a later visit, I discover a special philatelist window, for stamps only - no number required. They even had an entire catalog - with prior years' stamps available. Not back to 1918 though.
I can't re-find the Obecni Dum (Municipal Building) for another try at entry to the Mayor's Hall. It is time to scoot over to the Mucha Museum - it is opening and the first run of the video will be at quarter after. The video is good. Gives background and history. And I learn of one other Mucha site - the La Foque jewelry shop - I think it is in Paris. So this goes on my list for a when I visit there. He designed everything - the facade, the interior, the furniture, the display cases, and some jewelry!
The video is where I learned about Mucha designing the stamps and currency. He also designed the medals. Quite a guy.
Then back to the Municipal building. I get a little help from the Museum folks on which way to head. The building is open. I can't get into the concert hall or the Mayor's hall. So it will have to be another trip.
Today's main plan is the Castle. Which includes St Vitus Church. It has a stained glass window designed and painted by Mucha. Of course, it is the best window in the place. Also there is the tomb of Prince Wenceslas who we now know as Santa Clause. I like going underneath the church into the crypt. Makes me want to have a basement.
I climb the church tower. Great view. And I get a close up look at the slate roofs. They used different colors of slate, so there is a nice diamond pattern in the roof. Looks like snake skin!
Next stop, the Royal Palace. Which includes the basilica of Saint George from 973 AD! I think the very same St George of St George and the dragon. The entire skeleton is displayed behind glass. I still think this is weird. I do like the limestone.
I walk part of the wall. There are slits in the stone wall to shoot out of. These are a little safer. They have a log in the slit. The log has a slot in it. The log rotates on a vertical axis. So the shooter can pivot the log from side to side (about 120 degrees) without exposing himself to as much chance for return fire.
This castle is a bit too commercial for me. Shops inside. Including one selling swords and armor. And a cross bow firing range. Five shots and you get to keep the target.
One of the shops is a book shop. It is squeezed into what used to be where Kafka wrote. Teeny tiny. He might have even lived here. 150 square feet at the most. The majority of books on sale are his. Some translated to English.
For dinner, I go to a point and eat place - Ceska Kuchyna - Czech Kitchen. I point to some sweet dumplings - expecting a few. After she counts out a dozen and shows no sign of slowing down I make a sign - less, fewer. I think I end up with half an order. The dumplings look like white sausages. Sprinkled with a purple powder (ground poppy seed?) and melted butter poured over the top. Well at least I know how much room to save for dessert. For dinner: tomato soup, beets, white bean salad, beef goulash with potatoes. And beer of course.
This is a great place. No smoking to boot. I am full full full. Too much pointing for me. Good thing the tray would only hold so much. Some patrons get soup and eat their own bread that they bring in.
The dumplings are just barely sweet. I like them. Maybe made form potato?
On the way home I find another treasure. The Czech Ministry Building of Environmental Development. Address is 6 Siroka. Wow. Art Nouveau. I want in! No such luck. It looks like the guard is about to cave in and let me have a peek. But I see hesitation - like it might put his job in jeopardy. And since I don't even show a hint of any appearance that would give me legitimate access, he decides against it. I encourage him to tell his boss to arrange tours, and charge for them. So maybe next time. They work in these national treasures. Please share!
I notice that at home, I must filter out quite a bit - that is common place. I don't see everything. On this trip, everything is new. So no filtering. Except, I notice I am beginning to filter. My eyes are not as wide open. Too much to get into the government buildings. But not as much as at the beginning.
Then I continue my after dinner stroll. End up down at the Volta River. Get some sorbet - pineapple, cherry, and apple. Still room. And I watch the sunset over the Volta setting behind the Castle on the hill.
When I get home, I meet Brian - from Portsmouth, England. He visits about one per month. Lots of travel adventures for him.
I call it a day. Nite nite.
===================
Wednesday 21 April
=============
Prague . . .
Sunny, clear, cool morning.
I pass by the Natural History Museum on my way into town. It is not recommended by my guide book. But I decide to give it a quick tour anyway. Want to see what is has to offer. Sometimes I like things that the guide book doesn't. Will only take a moment to find out, since I am here.
Well, I guess not. They are on strike! No, I am not back in Italy. I heard that somewhere, when the transportation workers are on strike, they all go to work, and provide the services, but they refuse all fares. Would be nice if that were true here. Then they could have their strike, and I could get in. Instead it seems that they get the morning off, and I have to change plans. Oh well.
Down the main drag, I drop in to the Europa Hotel again. To give the interior details a more detailed looking over. The details that add up to ambiance.
Next stop, the post office, since I see a sign. See what kinds of stamps they have to offer. Did I mention that Alfonso Mucha designed the stamps and the currency way in 1918 or so when Czechoslovakia was formed? Hoping they might still have some in print. No such luck. But the post office itself is grand. I like these public buildings here. The inside of the building is a vast courtyard. There are art nouveau wall paintings. Makes me want to stay and hang out for a while.
They too have a pick a number system. Punch in 1-9 depending on the service you want, and out comes a number. Then each service window displays which number is being served. And there is a master display that shows which window is serving your number, and it points you right or left. There are benches. People are waiting - hanging out. It seems like a break, not a wait. No lines here. Something to import.
Nice thing, I even find English instructions for this system. On a later visit, I discover a special philatelist window, for stamps only - no number required. They even had an entire catalog - with prior years' stamps available. Not back to 1918 though.
I can't re-find the Obecni Dum (Municipal Building) for another try at entry to the Mayor's Hall. It is time to scoot over to the Mucha Museum - it is opening and the first run of the video will be at quarter after. The video is good. Gives background and history. And I learn of one other Mucha site - the La Foque jewelry shop - I think it is in Paris. So this goes on my list for a when I visit there. He designed everything - the facade, the interior, the furniture, the display cases, and some jewelry!
The video is where I learned about Mucha designing the stamps and currency. He also designed the medals. Quite a guy.
Then back to the Municipal building. I get a little help from the Museum folks on which way to head. The building is open. I can't get into the concert hall or the Mayor's hall. So it will have to be another trip.
Today's main plan is the Castle. Which includes St Vitus Church. It has a stained glass window designed and painted by Mucha. Of course, it is the best window in the place. Also there is the tomb of Prince Wenceslas who we now know as Santa Clause. I like going underneath the church into the crypt. Makes me want to have a basement.
I climb the church tower. Great view. And I get a close up look at the slate roofs. They used different colors of slate, so there is a nice diamond pattern in the roof. Looks like snake skin!
Next stop, the Royal Palace. Which includes the basilica of Saint George from 973 AD! I think the very same St George of St George and the dragon. The entire skeleton is displayed behind glass. I still think this is weird. I do like the limestone.
I walk part of the wall. There are slits in the stone wall to shoot out of. These are a little safer. They have a log in the slit. The log has a slot in it. The log rotates on a vertical axis. So the shooter can pivot the log from side to side (about 120 degrees) without exposing himself to as much chance for return fire.
This castle is a bit too commercial for me. Shops inside. Including one selling swords and armor. And a cross bow firing range. Five shots and you get to keep the target.
One of the shops is a book shop. It is squeezed into what used to be where Kafka wrote. Teeny tiny. He might have even lived here. 150 square feet at the most. The majority of books on sale are his. Some translated to English.
For dinner, I go to a point and eat place - Ceska Kuchyna - Czech Kitchen. I point to some sweet dumplings - expecting a few. After she counts out a dozen and shows no sign of slowing down I make a sign - less, fewer. I think I end up with half an order. The dumplings look like white sausages. Sprinkled with a purple powder (ground poppy seed?) and melted butter poured over the top. Well at least I know how much room to save for dessert. For dinner: tomato soup, beets, white bean salad, beef goulash with potatoes. And beer of course.
This is a great place. No smoking to boot. I am full full full. Too much pointing for me. Good thing the tray would only hold so much. Some patrons get soup and eat their own bread that they bring in.
The dumplings are just barely sweet. I like them. Maybe made form potato?
On the way home I find another treasure. The Czech Ministry Building of Environmental Development. Address is 6 Siroka. Wow. Art Nouveau. I want in! No such luck. It looks like the guard is about to cave in and let me have a peek. But I see hesitation - like it might put his job in jeopardy. And since I don't even show a hint of any appearance that would give me legitimate access, he decides against it. I encourage him to tell his boss to arrange tours, and charge for them. So maybe next time. They work in these national treasures. Please share!
I notice that at home, I must filter out quite a bit - that is common place. I don't see everything. On this trip, everything is new. So no filtering. Except, I notice I am beginning to filter. My eyes are not as wide open. Too much to get into the government buildings. But not as much as at the beginning.
Then I continue my after dinner stroll. End up down at the Volta River. Get some sorbet - pineapple, cherry, and apple. Still room. And I watch the sunset over the Volta setting behind the Castle on the hill.
When I get home, I meet Brian - from Portsmouth, England. He visits about one per month. Lots of travel adventures for him.
I call it a day. Nite nite.
===================
Friday, May 07, 2004
==================
Tuesday 20 April
===========
Prague . . .
Have breakfast with Kevin and Lawry. Seems that the Korean culture is WITH. There is no question. As a group, you have breakfast TOGETHER. Then goodbye to Lawry, as his bus back home leaves today.
Drizzling today.
Did I mention how popular ice cream bars seem to be here? Seems like every place has a freezer full. The freezers that have sliding glass windows on top. So you can see what's available.
Glass tile seems to be popular too. Or else I just happen to wander through the tile district.
This is my orientation via wander around town day. Seems to be my pattern, when there is time. And now I make time, since this is how I enjoy the places the best.
1) get to town, and on the way there, read the guide book and make my own list of intended sites (3 stars means do not leave town without going here)
2) upon arrival, determine train schedule for getting to the next place
3) get a place to stay,
4) wander around a bit close to home,
5) have a nice dinner,
6) get some rest,
7) in the morning, wander around the city, wherever it takes me
8) if I happen upon something interesting, or upon one of my intended sites, go ahead
9) once oriented, then make a general plan about which sites to attempt on which days (based upon location and priority - and getting oriented first helps)
10) leave time in the evenings for going to the people friendly places - hangouts
11) leave time at the end of my visit to wander again, this time in a more familiar context, sometimes going back to my favorite sites or hangouts.
It seems that two days of concentrated sight seeing is enough to catch the top spots. This wander method takes 4 or 5 days. So I am in Prague on a 5 day plan.
On my wander through a square, I see Lawry, in a cafe. He is on his second beer (half liter per). Poor guy. I think economics does play a role in consumption and over consumption. He said that at home a pack of cigarettes is 5 pounds, and a beer (pint) is 4 pounds. Well here a pack of cigarettes is 49 krown, and a beer is 18 krown. In US dollars: cigarettes $7.50 vs. $2.00; beer $6.00 vs. $0.75. So his consumption is over the top. His way of saying goodbye to the place. He shows me a few of his favorite spots. Half of which are bars or out door cafes - for the ambiance.
Along the way, I run across my first bakery. The pastries at this place are finger sized, so of course the Frankfurt acquired two limit does not apply here. I point to the list of flavors and ask for one of each, using my thumb pointing up to indicate one and using my newly acquired Czech skills ("va"). Then I point to a few more in the case that were somehow missed. I end up with a full bag full. I think she gave me two of each. Generous? Overzealous? Or the Czech way to get some extra business? Plenty to share.
Two places are remarkable- one is the "in the sidewalk" memorial for a couple of young Czechs who burned themselves in protest against the communists back in 1969, and the other is a place is the "Europe Hotel" on the main drag in town. The decor is totally 1920's and it is original. So we do a little time traveling. Then we say goodbye again - me to continue my wander - Lawry to continue his goodbye to Prague.
And I continue my hello. My style. Wander and consume pastry. The poppy seed puffs are the best, followed by the plum, and apple.
The Volga River is tea colored. And is about as wide as the Willamette in downtown Portland. The next bridge down looks populous. I wander down there. It is the Charles Bridge. Pedestrian only. A tor at each end with a main spire and smaller spires on each corner too. And there are statues all the way across the bridge. And craft stalls and buskers. Most stalls are selling art objects, prints, or small paintings. And there are many "portrait while you wait" artists.
Later on, in town I wander into an art gallery. I really like this guys work. Goes by Tonyan Gagic. He is an Armenian. His older paintings are signed in Armenian script.
I am oriented and am anxious to see my top choice here in town - the Mucha Museum. There is time. So I go find it. It is great. Alfonso Mucha. From the Czech Republic. Was a poster artist back in the 1890's through the early 1900's. Gained his fame in Paris doing posters for plays. This is quintessential art nouveau. It is good to see some of his original sketches. Also, they have paintings. But not enough of his work to satisfy me. Turns out there is more in town. I make a list. And there is a large collection that is housed in another town. The plan is to move it permanently to Prague in 2006. Might be good to come back to see it. At any rate, this small display makes my must see list.
There is a video playing. I ask when it will start again. Not again today. Oops. So I will return tomorrow. The guy is very nice. He endorses my ticket for a return visit the next day. That's hospitality. And he confirms that I have a complete list of other Mucha art in town. And he gives me directions to the closest - the Obecni Dum (or Municipal Building).
I go there. WOW! This building is a must see. It is designed and completely done in the Nouveau style. Down to the door plates and light fixtures. There are fenestrations, iron work, stained glass, murals, chandeliers, details, sculptures, an indoor fountain, floor tiles, wall tiles (that have a lady bug motif). Every detail is coordinated.
If I had a camera, this would be worthy of some pictures. Mostly close ups of some of the details. There must be a book somewhere. With professional photographs. Something to look for upon my return.
Well, I ask for access to the Mucha murals in the Mayor's Hall. No entry. Only by guided tour on Sunday. It is now Tuesday. I plan to leave on Saturday for Berlin. I will try again tomorrow. Maybe I can get through the security. No hope of shedding my tourist airs for the businessman look. That would give me a better chance. Well, if I don't get through, there may be a Sunday in 2006.
I find a great dinner place. For locals. Not a tourist in sight. I get help with the menu from a couple at my table. They assure me that the "Two Cats" style goulash has no cat. And they help me find other typical Czech choices.
Mmmm good.
Moravian cabbage soup with sausage.
Goulash (stew) - two cats style with roll dumplings and speck dumplings.
Stewed red cabbage.
Sweet plum dumplings (which are like Chinese steamed hum bao) with a white pudding sauce.
And of course a half liter of the local finest beer.
This is a dirty boots place too. Paint spattered pants. Accordion playing in the next room. I sit by the open door in case anyone starts smoking.
The couple I mentioned joined me. And later, a couple of sawyers joined me. After asking. Nice of the m to ask. And not going to smoke. Perhaps they are carpenters. Based on sign language, they both sawed wood for a living. Zbynek has a wife and children. And the other, Ludwig, has grand children (at 63 years of age). Nice down to earth guys.
I find my way home just fine. Even after the half liter. So I must be oriented.
Nite nite.
==============
Tuesday 20 April
===========
Prague . . .
Have breakfast with Kevin and Lawry. Seems that the Korean culture is WITH. There is no question. As a group, you have breakfast TOGETHER. Then goodbye to Lawry, as his bus back home leaves today.
Drizzling today.
Did I mention how popular ice cream bars seem to be here? Seems like every place has a freezer full. The freezers that have sliding glass windows on top. So you can see what's available.
Glass tile seems to be popular too. Or else I just happen to wander through the tile district.
This is my orientation via wander around town day. Seems to be my pattern, when there is time. And now I make time, since this is how I enjoy the places the best.
1) get to town, and on the way there, read the guide book and make my own list of intended sites (3 stars means do not leave town without going here)
2) upon arrival, determine train schedule for getting to the next place
3) get a place to stay,
4) wander around a bit close to home,
5) have a nice dinner,
6) get some rest,
7) in the morning, wander around the city, wherever it takes me
8) if I happen upon something interesting, or upon one of my intended sites, go ahead
9) once oriented, then make a general plan about which sites to attempt on which days (based upon location and priority - and getting oriented first helps)
10) leave time in the evenings for going to the people friendly places - hangouts
11) leave time at the end of my visit to wander again, this time in a more familiar context, sometimes going back to my favorite sites or hangouts.
It seems that two days of concentrated sight seeing is enough to catch the top spots. This wander method takes 4 or 5 days. So I am in Prague on a 5 day plan.
On my wander through a square, I see Lawry, in a cafe. He is on his second beer (half liter per). Poor guy. I think economics does play a role in consumption and over consumption. He said that at home a pack of cigarettes is 5 pounds, and a beer (pint) is 4 pounds. Well here a pack of cigarettes is 49 krown, and a beer is 18 krown. In US dollars: cigarettes $7.50 vs. $2.00; beer $6.00 vs. $0.75. So his consumption is over the top. His way of saying goodbye to the place. He shows me a few of his favorite spots. Half of which are bars or out door cafes - for the ambiance.
Along the way, I run across my first bakery. The pastries at this place are finger sized, so of course the Frankfurt acquired two limit does not apply here. I point to the list of flavors and ask for one of each, using my thumb pointing up to indicate one and using my newly acquired Czech skills ("va"). Then I point to a few more in the case that were somehow missed. I end up with a full bag full. I think she gave me two of each. Generous? Overzealous? Or the Czech way to get some extra business? Plenty to share.
Two places are remarkable- one is the "in the sidewalk" memorial for a couple of young Czechs who burned themselves in protest against the communists back in 1969, and the other is a place is the "Europe Hotel" on the main drag in town. The decor is totally 1920's and it is original. So we do a little time traveling. Then we say goodbye again - me to continue my wander - Lawry to continue his goodbye to Prague.
And I continue my hello. My style. Wander and consume pastry. The poppy seed puffs are the best, followed by the plum, and apple.
The Volga River is tea colored. And is about as wide as the Willamette in downtown Portland. The next bridge down looks populous. I wander down there. It is the Charles Bridge. Pedestrian only. A tor at each end with a main spire and smaller spires on each corner too. And there are statues all the way across the bridge. And craft stalls and buskers. Most stalls are selling art objects, prints, or small paintings. And there are many "portrait while you wait" artists.
Later on, in town I wander into an art gallery. I really like this guys work. Goes by Tonyan Gagic. He is an Armenian. His older paintings are signed in Armenian script.
I am oriented and am anxious to see my top choice here in town - the Mucha Museum. There is time. So I go find it. It is great. Alfonso Mucha. From the Czech Republic. Was a poster artist back in the 1890's through the early 1900's. Gained his fame in Paris doing posters for plays. This is quintessential art nouveau. It is good to see some of his original sketches. Also, they have paintings. But not enough of his work to satisfy me. Turns out there is more in town. I make a list. And there is a large collection that is housed in another town. The plan is to move it permanently to Prague in 2006. Might be good to come back to see it. At any rate, this small display makes my must see list.
There is a video playing. I ask when it will start again. Not again today. Oops. So I will return tomorrow. The guy is very nice. He endorses my ticket for a return visit the next day. That's hospitality. And he confirms that I have a complete list of other Mucha art in town. And he gives me directions to the closest - the Obecni Dum (or Municipal Building).
I go there. WOW! This building is a must see. It is designed and completely done in the Nouveau style. Down to the door plates and light fixtures. There are fenestrations, iron work, stained glass, murals, chandeliers, details, sculptures, an indoor fountain, floor tiles, wall tiles (that have a lady bug motif). Every detail is coordinated.
If I had a camera, this would be worthy of some pictures. Mostly close ups of some of the details. There must be a book somewhere. With professional photographs. Something to look for upon my return.
Well, I ask for access to the Mucha murals in the Mayor's Hall. No entry. Only by guided tour on Sunday. It is now Tuesday. I plan to leave on Saturday for Berlin. I will try again tomorrow. Maybe I can get through the security. No hope of shedding my tourist airs for the businessman look. That would give me a better chance. Well, if I don't get through, there may be a Sunday in 2006.
I find a great dinner place. For locals. Not a tourist in sight. I get help with the menu from a couple at my table. They assure me that the "Two Cats" style goulash has no cat. And they help me find other typical Czech choices.
Mmmm good.
Moravian cabbage soup with sausage.
Goulash (stew) - two cats style with roll dumplings and speck dumplings.
Stewed red cabbage.
Sweet plum dumplings (which are like Chinese steamed hum bao) with a white pudding sauce.
And of course a half liter of the local finest beer.
This is a dirty boots place too. Paint spattered pants. Accordion playing in the next room. I sit by the open door in case anyone starts smoking.
The couple I mentioned joined me. And later, a couple of sawyers joined me. After asking. Nice of the m to ask. And not going to smoke. Perhaps they are carpenters. Based on sign language, they both sawed wood for a living. Zbynek has a wife and children. And the other, Ludwig, has grand children (at 63 years of age). Nice down to earth guys.
I find my way home just fine. Even after the half liter. So I must be oriented.
Nite nite.
==============
travel log [latest posting is at the top]
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- Now blogging at my own domain.Go to blog.mydomain....
- French Polynesia Arrival Retrospective[going back ...
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- Auckland to Mo'orea to HomeI am home now. For som...
- Wednesday March 14 Whakatane to AucklandThis is wh...
- Tuesday March 13 WhakataneIt it sunny in the morni...
- March 16 Auckland AirportAll checked in. Departure...
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