A fool's journey

Common, in general

Bare feet. Including waiters. People walking, working. Inside, always. Thanks to my hosts, I was permitted to wear house slippers, even though it was not the norm. I adjusted some, they adjusted some. Tonight, I saw a guy operating a bit back-hoe - bare feet. Bus drivers. People rding bicycles. Auto-rickshaw drivers. Otherwise, sandals. That come off upon entry to a store, shop space. A few people wear shoes.

Evey manner of conveyance. Walking, Bicycling. Some pedaled by hand, for those unable to do so with their feet. Carts. Some pulled by a bullock or two. Many pulled by a man. Many a cart is a self-contained portable enterprise, that also serves as a sleep platform. Not the dinner table. That is the ground. Motorcycles are "bikes" or "two-wheelers". Auto-rickshaws are "three-wheelers". Cars and taxis are "four-wheelers". Trucks. Packed busses. With people getting on and off as they move. Doors always open. No glass in the windows. People carrying things on their heads. Water, parcels, fodder, sticks. Burlap used to contain and ship just about anything. Re-used. All vehicles beep beep as they go. Only seen one minor spill off of a bike. And I was almost run into by a "bike". Because I looked the wrong way. Oh, and when I rented a bicycle, I almost ran into a pedestrian, who looked the other way, because I was driving on the wrong side of the road. All traffic goes in the same direction. Sidewalks for work and living space. Walkers on the edge of the road. Then bicycles. Bikes, Autos, cars and trucks and buses. No real middle of the road. Very few have a line. All ebb and flow. I there is room for the other gut to get over, tehn the person from the other direction will move over in front of on-comming traffic. It all shifts. A lot less territorial than driving in the US.

Enterprises:
Fruit. Coconut juice. Cane juice. Pressed from the cane on the spot. The shop space is used for storage. The sidewalk is used for workspace. The feet are vices. Sidewalks are common space. There are no homeless here. Many people make their home on the sidewalk. I see cooking, laundry, eating, kids doing homework. Families sleeping. Very much really a common space. Makes requiring everyone to have a building for a home a very big burden.

Well, time to get back to the ashram. Curfew soon. Lock the doors. Nite nite.

posted by Evan @ 8:55 AM

Monday January 30th e-mail excepts:

Yesterday (Sunday) was a day of rest and recuperation for me. Sick, ill, fever,infections, malaise. Some is medicine, some is the dirt, dust, grime, and germs,and new place, new people, and no hope of clean, anywhere, anytime.

So I will try to go at a pace that my body can handle. No malaria chills, so thank goodness for that. Not to worry.

Tuesday January 31st e-mail excerpts:

Well this trip is turning out to not be about seeing anything in particular. So far, no "must sees" for my list. It takes effort and concentration to get somewhere, and then it turns out to be not be something that I would ever go out of my way to see. So it is about being here. The journey. Not really much progress, in terms of miles/kilometers traveled.

I think some is that it is all so new. No background for me. When I see something in Italy, it is something I have heard about before. The history is part of my culture and my own story. I do not have those references here. So the meaning is not as rich and deep. And I know it will not be until I learn more. So I am learning as I go.

Going to Auroville tomorrow. Kind of a utopia community experiment place. Thanks to Bruce for recommending it. International community. They let people visit for the day. But they really like people to stay for a week. Will see what happenes.

Someone I met just sent me an e-mail about a feast day that happens once every 12 years. Down in Karnataka. So maybe I will end up there on February 6th.

No fever this morning. First time in at least a week. Finally resorted to pepto bismal tablets to arrest the travelers diarrhea. My intestines feel fine. Want to prevent dehydration.

Have a sore throat. I am quite the walking immune system booster experience.

I had it really well at the beginning of my trip. I was spoiled. The best food I have had was in the village. So fresh. Tasted great. Some home cooked food sounds good right now.

In the restaurants, things are so dirty. No hygiene what so ever. Cleaning the knife before slicing consists of wiping it off with the fingers, which were not washed. So I get cooked things, and hope it was cooked hot enough long enough.

I did play two chess games upon arrival, in the market. Lost first game. Won the second, with an elegant minor piece sacrifice that led to a pawn pin and forced check combination that got me a rook in exchange. He found a defense with his bishop, but I found a block for it with a pawn. Played two games today on the promenade (Bay of Bengal). Won both.

posted by Evan @ 8:09 AM

Pondicherry - after day of rest

I did visit Shankar's parents and grandmother (she is 102). His father came and picked me up - in a hired car. Talk about hospitality. He is in journalism, and is very active with a group that is focused on helping people lead a good elderly life. Instead of worrying about health, the focus is on keeping an active happy mind. I see where Shankar gets his spirit and service attitude. After our chat, he took me back to my room in town. This was very nice, since for me to find the house, would have been a challenge.

Spent Sunday resting up. Fever, feeling ill. Took my weekly medicine on Saturday morning, so this is part of it. But mostly, I think it is just that I have no resistance to anything here. And there is so much exposure. Clean is relative. So very clean here is not very clean.

It is not a good sign, when eating a the courtyard restaurant, recommended by the guidebook as a place to get a good clean meal, when the waiter bend down, picks up a stick, and uses it to bore out the clogged salt and pepper shakers.

I do not want to take anymore anti-biotics. So I will try to take it easy, and let my body deal with the viruses and germs. My lungs have it the hardest. Congestion. May be some infection, or it may just be my lungs working to expel all the dust. Got pink-eye in the right eye on Saturday, the left eye on Sunday. Stayed in Sunday with a fever. Just had fluids. Feeling better today. Extended my stay here two days, so I may be healthier before proceeding.

Did I mention how I am plumbing challenged? I do fine here with the low tech basic situation. I had a very difficult time this morning at a businessman's restaurant. Western toilet, with a water spigot and bucket in lieu of TP. I did fine with the squat toilets after seeing other people outside. They really squat. In Europe, I tried straddling. Doesn't work, as the pants are in the way. Squatting all the way down and back works great. So how to combine splashing myself with water with a western toilet? I have no idea. I wound up accidentally pouring water on my pants leg. And water ran up my sleeve, so I figured out, I have to keep my arm uphill. So I ended up with a wet sleeve, wet leg, and wet behind. No time to air dry, as someone else wanted in. Well, I am sure I will get a chance to practice some more. It was much easier in the village. I could splash water anywhere, so I managed to at least miss my clothes in the process.

Pondicherry: e-mail excerpt

The best part is the friendly people. Very delighted to meet me. The second best is the food.
No maybe the best is the freedom people have here. Fewer rules.

The worst part is the cleanliness. Lots of dust and dirt. It is hard on me physically. Have been ill some. Litter is the norm. Guess it goes with the freedom.

People seem happy. And spiritual. And very industrious. Busy working. Like service is a privilege. It is nice to see.

The second worst part is that sometimes the friendliness is for business purposes. Guess it goes with being an obvious tourist. I see very few people who are not Indian. So I stick out.

I eat the local food - tiffin (idly, poori, dosai, upma (pongal)) and thali (lunch). Expected a little more spicy hotness. May get that further south.
I am learning about myself and my culture from being here in a different one. And questions seem to emerge - - like "What is important?", "What do I look for in a friend?'. Basic stuff like that.

And I cannot assume anything. I got some stamps. Licked them and put them on the postcards. Took a long time to find a drop box. When I was putting them in, the stamps fell off. No glue! Guess that makes sense where it is humid, and the glue would just stick when you didn't want it to. So I went to the post office today. Asked where the glue was. Out side. A small table was set up with a metal box on it with some "gum" in it - looked like blue wallpaper paste. Dab some up, smear on the back of the stamp, bang it down with the heel of my fist, all done.

posted by Evan @ 5:52 AM

Catch 22 - a foreshadowing

Remember UPS, and the lost passport? The person who helped me said she would see about getting me a refund. I checked my credit card after Christmas travels. No refund. So I called UPS. Here's the catch. I have to call and ask for a refund within 15 days of the originally scheduled delivery date, which was December 6. I missed that date. Talking with the rep in person didn't count, because the system simply would not allow for a refund to be processed after the 15 days had passed. So what if the delivery was more than 15 days late. Then no refund is possible. Well, I got a refund via my credit card - for services not performed as promised.

Catch 22 India style - My flight from Mumbai to Chennai was cancelled. I knew this before I left. The travel agent said I would be issued a sticker by the airline. Every time I enquired about the sticker, I was told, oh that will be at the next destination. So I end up in Mumbai, with no sticker. Arrived late. Too late to make the revised flight.

I wait in a line. After confirming I was in the proper line. When I got to the front, after many people cutting, I find out "wrong line". OK, get a shuttle to another terminal. With many offers from taxis to take me too, for a fee. One said it was the shuttle. When I got in, I confirmed that this was the free shuttle? No, so many rupees. Didn't have any. I tried to get out. They had locked me in. "Unlock the door!" They could tell I meant it. Got out of that one. Whew.

Went to the airline for my new flight. Turns out I had to get an approval from the other airline - the original one that had cancelled their flight. So another shuttle to there. Then back again.. Then wait in line. With many taking cuts urgently. I get to the front - right line, but too late, my flight was already leaving. This was 9:30 AM. Next flight 6:00 PM. Which was later cancelled and combined with the 8:30 flight. No room on that one for me. There is a 1:30 with yet another airline. They will not take my ticket without it also being signed over to them. So another shuttle back to the other airline? Yes, or I can walk half a mile. I walk. And wait in line. No, they cannot endorse yet again. Have to issue a new ticket first, then endorse that over. Instead, the guy alters the prior endorsement, and then walks me to the other airline (Jet India I think). Words are exchanged. I am told to wait. I think I am on stand-by. After 45 minutes, I do end up with a boarding pass. Whew. On a flight where every seat was taken. So this added at least 4 hours to my eventual 40 hour journey.

Good thing I heard stories before I left. SO this did not seem too out of the ordinary. Even if my flight had arrived on time in Mumbai, I do not see how I could have negotiated the airport, terminals, shuttles, lines, etc., to have made the flight I had a seat on. That would take someone with experience and language skills.

Good news - customs was simple - fill out a form - hand it to someone as I pass. No one to hand it to. Not a very secure border. Makes it easier for me to enter. Wish I had my knife!

posted by Evan @ 3:04 AM

Pondicherry and plans

This evening, I am going to visit Shankar's parents and grandmother. I met Shankar about 8 years ago. He has a warm heart. And he is a master drummer. Lives in Portland now.

I plan to stay here at least three more nights. Then head south. Then on to some other southern states - Karnataka, Kerala. Then fly or take a ferry (if available) to Sri Lanka. Have received e-mail warnings from the State Department. So there are a few areas to avoid there. Then on to Goa. And Mumbai (Bombay). If I cannot get a flight from down south, I will loop back to Chennai. And fly to Sri Lanka from there and back. Then fly from Chennai to Mumbai (the end of February). Then leave India from Mumbai on March 2.

This city is the most like other cities not in India. My fever was half a degree high yesterday. Only a quarter today.

And I am proud to report my first episode of traveler's diarrhea. I am sorry to say that I think it was the meal I took in a village home near Mamallapuram. Very gracious. Yet flies were everywhere. And there was dirt in the rice. I was mostly worried about my teeth at the time. Rocks can be hard on them. That was Wednesday. So it took two weeks to happen. Inside are still gurgling. So not back to normal yet. May not happen. Good news is that I feel fine. I have adjusted to having a slight fever, and to the mild lung congestion (from dust and smoke). Maybe I will adjust to a mild case of the GI track blues.

I have the pepto bismal and immodium AD in reserve if it gets to the point of not feeling well. And of course my rehydration mixtures.

Making my 2 to 3 liters of water every day has worked out well. I think I would be having more difficulties without that routine. I purify with drops, and then filter. At first, my plan was to filter, then purify, and then re-filter. But the water I have to start with is pretty good. Usually seems to already be purified. And there was the problem of having to purify the water stuck in the filter. Which is difficult, because the filter itself filters out the chemicals that do the purification. Plus the filter clogged after the first four liters. Glad I have the field maintainable unit. Cleaned the filter, and it now works fine. Thought perhaps the purification chemicals affected the filter. But now, I don't think so. I think I have had to clean the filter four times. And I think the cause is mostly rust from iron pipes. Not bad things.

But I feel much more comfortable drinking water I have processed. Encourages me to drink, and keep hydrated.

Food is another issue. Yes, I get hungry. And I have to be careful where I get food. And there will be times I just want to try something. So I will take some risks. And hopefully, I won't feel too queasy in the process.

I am glad to report that I have not yet seen one McDonald's here. No coke. Lots of pepsi. A few Subways.

For lunch today, I strayed from the guide book. The place I went to did not serve meals, so either the book is wrong, or things have changed. I wound up at a place that was the Indian equivalent of fast food. Served on plastic trays. It is also a sweet shop. All sweetened with fructose. So I tried some. Not too sweet. Mostly made from fruits and nuts. One is wrapped in silver foil - edible. I enjoy trying these new things.

posted by Evan @ 2:34 AM

Pondicherry, Tamil Nadu, India, Friday January 27, 2006 3:30 PM

Arrived here yesterday, by bus from Mamallapuram. It was Republic Day here yesterday. So I got to enjoy the festivities last night. My favorite - seeing a lit procession led by a purple velvet draped elephant.

The range of interaction I experience has quite a wide range. High school aged boys are delighted to say hello in English and get a response. I am a photo opportunity (digital of course). I also enjoy the cultural exchanges, when we can understand each other. I am able to get assistance in terms of directions and negotiating through the transportation. All in English.

It takes a lot of concentration to undecided what is being said sometimes. So I have discovered that I have about a 5 minute limit. Which is pretty good for an introvert. I may have a limit at home too. I just notice it more here.

The other end of the spectrum is beggars who follow and pester. Took refuge in a shop today after being followed for a block and a half.

Many street peddlers too. Some of whom do follow and pester. I know this is a result of prior exchanges with prior visitors. So I try to be clear with what I am doing without encouraging further intrusion. Such as. . "I am here to see the temple." or "I am enjoying a walk."

In the middle range are those who are friendly and then shift to the peddle. Such as . . . "Hello, Where are you from?, Won't you come to my shop/guest house/etc?" A few have been selling drugs.

Many people have been friendly and offer to go along with me. For company. A few of these have later turned into pleas for food, money. Most have been sincerely friendly. I just have trouble knowing the difference.

I try not to be too defensive. Otherwise I would miss out on the great interactions and truly sweet people. So I am not yet jaded. Still too naive. And getting wiser.

I guess it is no different at home. Just more obvious here.

Makes me think . . .

Why do I choose to be friendly? What are my intentions?
Here . . . Cultural exchange, to get assistance with how to get somewhere.

At home . . . Because I am interested or attracted. Need for social exchange. But why attracted? Because I see something special, or someone with a trait I admire and would like to have myself. But then everyone is special. And everyone is different so has something I can learn.

Anyway, this travel is good for me. To see these questions. May increase my awareness of myself. Maybe I can then be less naive in the future.

A nagging question: was the fellow pilgrim who made friends with me and invited me to stay in his area the same person who was a thief and took things from me while I slept? The answer really doesn't matter. It could have been him. Or someone else. The key seems to be . . . be open and be careful, without being too wary.

posted by Evan @ 2:01 AM

Mamallapuram, Tamil Nadu, India Tuesday January 24, 2006

I am in a nice seaside town. Finally got out of the big city (Chennai). Am south a bit.

I did like village life. And I realize that I did not participate fully. I did not go to the well pump and carry water. I did not build a fire or heat the water. I did not milk the water buffalo. I did not harvest any crops, process any grain or beans. Grind, shell, roast. Always something going on. Always everyone pitching in. I think I would still like it, even if I had to do some of the work. It is all very social.

I have settled into my own daily routines. Filtering water, purifying it. Washing clothes and getting them dry. Mosquito prevention and control. Bathing.

You know from prior posts, that I am a bit challenged when it comes to plumbing. Well it may surprise you that here, it has been easy to adapt. Why? No technology to figure out. And no privacy - so I just have to observe discreetly, and I can learn what to do.

There is usually a bathroom - for bathing. With a bucket and a scoop. If there is no tap, then I have to go get some water. I like a warm bath. Not hot. I have learned how much water I need in the bucket, and how the temperature has to feel to my hand for it to feel fine when I scoop the water out of the bucket and splash it on myself. Wet head, lather, rinse, soap up, rinse off. Takes 5 minutes. And about 5 gallons of water. One gallon of hot in 4 gallons of cool. Pretty basic and simple. There is a drain in the floor. So no worry about splashing or where the water goes. It eventually goes down the drain. Sometimes the toilet is also in the bathroom, so it can get splashed too. But usually it is a squat toilet. So no throne to keep dry.

I dry off with a handy handkerchief that can air dry in less than an hour. Now I have seen guys bathe out in the common area. They do it with their cloth around their waist. I am not this skilled.

Flushing? Fill the bucket with water from the tap. And pour it down the hole. No mechanical skills required. No mechanical failure possible. No toilet paper. Splash some water onto the affected areas. Then shake dry and air dry. Watching moms with their kids helped me in this department.

posted by Evan @ 6:08 AM

another excerpt:
I like village life. The food was great. Extended family life is great. They all treated me very well. It is an experience I will never forget.

Turns out, I was on a train that did go on to the proper town. So I extended my ticket. Bujji left home at 5 AM and met me at my sleeper car in Vizianagaram. We proceeded together to a wonderful welcome in Parathipuram, complete with Indian roses, childeren, and chalk paintings on the porch.

After such a long train journey, I needed to bathe. I was accomodated in every way. Made comfortable. And then we proceeded to the village by taxi. So many of us, it took two vehicles. Plus two motorcycles (Sridhar's was one).

posted by Evan @ 7:50 AM

e-mail excerpts:

I didn't use the sugar rehydration mix yet. Did use the mix without sugar. Because a pilgrim thief took my tooth powder. I used my backup (Dr Bronner's) for a few days. Then yuk. Decided I could use the mix. That lasted for a few days. Then found some tooth powder at a street stall. 5 Rs = 10 cents. Thief also took my mini-sanitizer bottle. So today I found a small bottle of coconut oil at a stall for 5 Rs. Will use that up, and then fill with sanitzer. Sanitizer itself is NOT available here. No market. Also, no market for post cards. Did get stamps today. No luck finding ANY postcards anywhere.

Toilet? We are talking two footpads and an oval hole in the ground as a target. No tissue. Perhaps a tap with cool water. Or else a bucket with water. I have adapted. What 1 billion are doing, I can do too for a few months. Bathing is from a bucket. Cool water is the norm. My current room actually has a shower head, And hot water until 10 AM (solar heated). At village, I was treated special. Heated water for me over a fire for my bath (from a bucket with a scoop). I liked village life.

Plumbing challenges on prior travels were preparation. No bladder distress. Too hot. All moisture is sweated away.

No snappy cam. None seen even to purchase. I went at least a week without seeing ANY white person or any other foreigner. On train back from village, I did see some Asians from Tibet. I am quite rare here. No one can tell where I am from. They know America. They do not know Oregon.


English works well enough here. Better than in Japan. Maybe not quite as well as in Europe. Or maybe that is because of the culture gap. More to understand and explain.

Shopping here is NOT easy. So far, I haven't seen something that even resembles what I know as a store. All stalls or sidewalk vendors. No prices. No browsing.

It seems very safe. I like village life here. Entire family lives together. Sleeps together. No such thing as privacy. It is not possible. Or wanted. I am watched intently. Flossing is quite the spectacle.

As is water filtering and purification. Lots of questions. People ask for water. At first I gave it to them. All dring without putting mouth to bottle. All part of sharing. No one likes taste of purified water (chlorine taste). So now I try to explain that the water has chemicals for treatment.

Yes, it is warm here. Hot to me, since I am used to inside temperatures in the 50s. But for people here it is winter. Coats hats sweaters are normal wear. I was very surprised to see people working hard in the sun without sweating. Now makes sense. It is cold here, for them.

Rained at nigtht. Only a few times. Wet season is over.

posted by Evan @ 7:38 AM

Back in Chennai Thursday January 19, 2006 3:15 PM here

Since the last post, I headed off north, to go to a friend's village. On the way, I went to Tirupathi, and then walked, as a pilgrim, to Tirumala. It is either the first or second most visited pilgrimage location on this planet.

Then proceeded on an 18 hour train ride to the village. Wow. What a welcome. What great hospitality. The best part - I was treated special for a day or two. And by the end of my visit, I was being treated normally. Now that's what I call special.

The food was great. All prepared fresh, with fresh ingredients. Right from the fields. Fresh milk from the water buffalo. With curd (yogurt) made for the evening.

I was sad to leave.

My return reservation was not confirmed until the day I left (17th). Tried to find out if it was confirmed via the internet. First at a neighbors (economics professor and top ranked senior tennis player) and then in town (Parrathipuram). No luck. Neither worked. So Bujji (Srihari's spouse's brother) called a friend in a big city, and he looked it up.

The train was 4 hours late leaving, but arrival in Chennai was only 2 hours late. Turns out my confirmation was only for half way, so I perched in the berths for the second half of the trip.

Back in Chennai. Well rested. Well fed. Bathed. And all clothes washed. What more could a traveler want? Next destination is Pondicherry (south in Tamil Nadu). Plan to stop on the way to see Mamallapuram (old temple).

No gastro-intestinal problems at all. Did have a fever - 1.5 degrees above normal. Viral related - with dust and smoke (cooking fire kind) as the cause - dried out my sinuses. Plus traveling exposed me to so many people. And all new germs for me. Forgot to take temperature today. So am feeling all better. Last time I took it, I was still 0.5 high. Taking doxycycline (anti-biotic). A few days to go. Chose that one, since it is also an anti-malarial. Usually I wouldn't take an anti-biotic for a viral thing, but my system was over-taxed. So I went ahead, per good advice from Srihari's doctor brother-in-law. He arranged for the medicine, and Bujji went to get it. Did I mention how great the hospitality was? I have been treated most well here. So it not only suits me; I am welcome.

- - - - - - - - - - -

Details - for those who want them - - -

This pilgrimage place was recommended by a woman on the plane. She witnessed my "special" search in Los Angeles and later, once aboard the flight, she expressed her sympathy. During the search, I fessed up to having scissors. They were on my mini-pocket knife, which was subsequently confiscated. The knife was a gift from a visit to Switzerland. I wanted to go back and check my bags. They wouldn't let me. Said they would still take the knife. They promised to mail it to me. Things tend to find their way back to me, so I expect the knife will be waiting for me upon my return. What doesn't make sense is that my bags were scanned. So why didn't they take them then? They would have never found the scissors during the special search if I hadn't told them about them. And it turns out I have another pair in my toiletries kit for trimming my moustache. Forgot about those. Silly. Doesn't make me fell any safer.

On the pilgrimage, I carried my pack on my back, and my bag on my head. Inside the bag was a stethoscope to be delivered to the village in order to support a girl who will pursue studies in medicine. It seemed fitting to bring it to her, after blessing it by taking it to Tirumala. The calling bell on my pack, tinkled all the way. Only later did I learn that only women carry loads on their heads. Seemed to work fine for me.

TRAINS: Took the train from Chennai to Tirupathi. And then took a train from Tirupathi to Vizianagaram, in Andhra Pradesh. Barbara told me stories about getting train tickets. Shankar suggested I book on-line. So what did I do? Waited in line. They wouldn't sell me a ticket. Sent me to another building. Waited in another line, and found out which train I needed. Then filled out a form. Waited in another line. Paid for a reservation. And was told to come back the day prior to my travels, with a letter, requesting "emergency quota". Since the train was already full. Pongal is a major holiday here. It is called Sankranthi in Andhra Pradesh. So many people are traveling home. Like for Thanksgiving, except it is three day harvest festival.

I did walk back down to Tirupathi, wrote a letter, and go t an emergency quota seat. On my outbound trip. Return not confirmed. Would have to be on a waiting list. Or write another letter to the station master at the departure town.

More details in another post if I have time after checking my e-mail.

- - - - - -

Web connection is down. Can’t post. Can’t check e-mail. So will type a document that hopefully I can post once it is up again.

More details:

Exchanged dollars for Rupees today. Just getting it from the ATM was much easier. They wouldn’t take the ones, so it was not necessary to bring so many. Did use a few for my pre-paid taxi from the airport. And US coins and ones have been quite the conversation pieces. A Pongal tradition is to distribute money. I enjoyed participating. Gave ones to Srihari’s clan of nieces and nephews and a cousin or two. A remembrance of me and my visit. So $25 in ones would have been adequate.

Brought US currency because cannot change rupees back to US currency upon leaving without an encashment certificate. When getting rupees right from the ATM, no such certificate is provided. So exchanged some at a bank. Rate isn’t that great. Got 43.6 rupees per dollar. Will cost 44.9 rupees to get a dollar back. To put this in perspective – my 18 hour train ride cost only 300 rupees. A meal is from 20 to 60 rupees. It will be difficult to use up the rupees I now have.

I took the subway today in Chennai. Here, a subway is a walkway that goes under a main road that is difficult to cross on foot on the surface.

Bought stamps today at the post office. Had to search it out. 8 rupees to mail a post card – foreign. 15 for a letter. So far, I have not seen one post card for sale, anywhere. It is difficult for people here to conceive of traveling as a tourist. They ask – what is the purpose of your trip? Being a tourist does not compute. Pilgrimage does. Social visit does. So I have adjusted my answers so that it makes some sense to them. I am a sociable pilgrim. Sending a postcard as a tourist may not be the norm. So I trust I will eventually find some postcards.

On the train, people are very interested in my guide book. To see what is says. To read some English. Their eyes pop out when they see the price ($40). That is 2000 rupees. Unthinkable. The most common question: where are you from? Others: Where is your family? What do you do for work? How much was your plane fare? How much do you earn? Are you traveling alone?

Many times, people have adopted me, because it seems so unusual for me to be traveling alone. Very protective. Sometimes could it verge on possessive? Or is that just me?

Holding hands is normal. With anyone.

Anyway, a fellow in line for stamps asked where I was from, asked me to tea. And dinner at his home. I had tea with him – Navin kumar. Declined dinner due to logistics (read – how would I ever find your place? And then away again to mine?).

Credit cards? Don’t make sense here. The one place that took them, for a room, would add 2.5%. Then credit card adds 2% exchange. All for a room that is under 500 rupees. Cash makes sense since each transaction is so small. May get to use credit card for airfare to Sri Lanka. ATM card is the way. Worked in Frankfurt for Euros, needed for a phone call. Worked here for Rupees. Like magic.

- - - - - - -

Net is still down: what was 15 minutes, is now 30 more minutes . . .

HURDLES:

The first was purpose: relief aid or tourist? Then there were three: medical, flight, visa.

The tsunami was December 26, 2004. Just a little over a year ago. Where to go? How to help out? Well, of the areas affected, I know two people from India. So there. In about March 2005, I was referred by Shankar to India Aid. The fellow I was working with said it was too soon. A friend from high school (Ed), said give it some time, until all is forgotten. And indeed he was right. Two more global disasters (Hurricanes and earthquakes). So it got to be August. Still nothing. I checked in. And was referred on to someone else. Then to another. Eventually filled in an application on-line. Things developed over the year, since I do not think the application existed back when I started.

Questions along the way are a bit alarming – “Who do you know in India that you can contact if you need assistance?” My answer = No one. Just know a few people from there who I can contact by e-mail.

I filled out the application in early October. Didn’t hear back. I bugged them again. Then gave up. Decided to go as a tourist. At least that will help the economy. And I will experience the culture. So will be better prepared to answer questions next time. I wonder if there is something I do not know.

Eventually I did get a note back, with apologies. They assumed I had already departed by then, since I was targeting October November. So my purpose became tourist.

Flight: I looked on-line for flights. Found good ones via Singapore, Malaysia (Kula Lumpur), Bangkok, and Hong Kong. All allowing stop-overs. And one via Frankfurt. With a stopover allowed in India, and in Europe. Chose that one. The terms expired the next day. So I got a referral to a travel agent and had them book me with a stopover in Mumbai and Frankfurt on the way home. After sleeping on it, it seemed not so smart to go from India weather to German weather.

So now, how to leave a coat and guide book in Germany – so I wouldn’t have to carry it all during two months in India.

Medical: Immunizations and anti-malarial drugs. I don’t like taking things. I eventually took the plunge. And got a whole assortment of first aid items – for possible health problems while here. Including many kinds of insect repellants. And a mosquito net.

Declined the polio. And decided on the weekly anti-malarial – mefloquine – the one that the troops take – and that has possible side effects – like bizarre dreams. And going berserk. Started the drug one week prior to departure. Proceeded to get sick. Flu - ache – and got a cold. Rare for me. Had one just a month prior, which was first in at least two or three years.

None of this is required. Now that I am here, I am glad I started the anti-malarial. There are not a lot of mosquitoes, there are just a few, but most of the time. At least in the evening. So I get a bite or two every day.

One symptom is fever. Also, this may be a side effect from the drug. Not to worry. No chills yet. So no malaria. Ding-ding. Tinkle-tinkle. Thanks bell.

Visa: Fill out an application, send it with the fee, two passport photos, AND my passport to the Consulate General of India in San Francisco. With 7-10 working days needed on their end. I prepared the express envelope and delivered it to a UPS outlet on December 2. A Friday. Turns out, I had missed their pick-up that day (which was 3:30 pm). Although, if I had known to ask, I could have gone 1 mile and easily made it for the 5 pm pick-up at another place. So it was picked up on Monday December 5^th. With delivery promised on December 7^th. I checked on the 8^th. Only showed a departure scan. I called. Was told that it was probably delivered – just didn’t get scanned. They would put a trace on it if I wanted. I wanted.

Eventually it was found, in Illinois! Why? All routed through there, and there was a weather delay. Delivery rescheduled to two days away. Which doesn’t quite make sense, since it was supposed to only take two in total. Next thing I know, I check on-line and it shows arrival in Portland, with delivery scheduled for two days later, on the 15^th. I call. Ask why Portland, and why two more days? Oh, didn’t you know? It is being returned to you, since a trace was put on it. Yes, I do want it back, if it was lost. But mostly, I want it delivered to San Francisco. 10 working days with holidays is getting very close to my scheduled departure. I go down to the UPS depot in Vancouver. Can I get my package now, instead of waiting two more days? They admitted they couldn’t tell if it was coming back to me, or if it was going on to San Francisco. Would call me the next day. Meanwhile, I filled out another label, so that it could be resent from there, without it having to be delivered to me at home. The next day – good news – it was going on to San Francisco. With the run around, she said she would see about getting me a refund. It did get there on the 15^th. 10 AM. It appeared to go by ground. So the 2-day air was more like 12-day ground. A 37 cent stamp is looking pretty good about now.

Now I just hoped I would get it back before my trip. The next morning, the US Postal Service delivered my passport with visa at 10:15 AM. So the consulate turned it around in one day. And the USPS delivered it via express mail overnight. Glad I did the pre-paid self-addressed express envelope. So this is a lesson for my trip. Things will work out. Eventually. Do what I can. And meanwhile, no need to worry. I may worry, but it won’t really do any good.

The adventure started before I left. As for packing, which I usually do at the last minute – I had done that long ago. As part of putting things away after the last trip. All assembled and ready to go. For the next one.

I didn’t actually cram it all in until the night before. I amounted to my standard 20 pounds. Plus 10 MORE pounds of specialty items for India – including a water filter pump, a bucket, meds, sprays, re-hydration powder, and 3 pounds of guide books. So 30 pounds seems like a lot. Ditch a few items before I go. Am glad I did. Next time, I will bring even less.

One last minute item: pick up a stethoscope from Srihari to take to his family. And one for me to do: mail tea and German guide book to Germany. No need to bring coat or mail coat, since friends in Germany will loan me one.

Did I get around to mailing the tea and book? No. So I bring it. Will try to get it to friends during my re-fueling stop in Frankfurt. Am told by travel agent that I will not be allowed out of the secure area. Well I will try, and if all else fails, either mail it from India. Or carry it for two months.

As it turns out, I did get out of the secure area. Everyone had to get off the plane, with bags. I went through immigration and customs. No duty on tea. I was told there would be, which was one issue with even mailing it in the first place. In retrospect, that would have been easier. I got euro from a cash machine with my ATM. Called friend. Not in service. Tried to leave my package with left luggage. Wouldn’t take it since it wasn’t in a luggage box. Got a box from Lufthansa. Left it with their names. Tried to call and leave a message no such luck. Will have to call or e-mail later. Go back through security. 40 minutes in all.

From leaving home, until getting to my room in Chennai, it took 40 hours.

I think I mentioned that. 40 seems to come up again and again.

Well, I gave up posting this at the shop I was at. Latest was one more hour. So I asked them where another place was. Copied to a disc. And came here. Hope this posts.

posted by Evan @ 6:32 AM

Tirupati, Tuesday Jan 10, 2006

Yesterday, had my first auto-rickshaw ride from Hotel to train station. Great fun. Zip. Zip. And he wanted me to get out fast too!

Had first leaf enfolded after dinner gob to chew. Tasted good. Very refreshing. Seems healthy too. Another taste treat was fresh pineapple juice at the end of dinner. Not filtered. Digested all well.

Train ride to here from Chennai was fun. I was quite the attraction on the train. Instant friends. Where do I come from? What is your purpose? Tourism doesn't quite make sense. Why be away from family, unless you have to for work?

Feel relieved today. I am a bit too prepared. So I will be fine.Glad I shed some items at the last minute. Will shed some more as I go I think. Don't really need a lot.

It was not all a big mistake to come. It suits me well here.

Had a twinge in my belly yesterday. Was worried - oh no. But it was only from eating a bit too much of the good food. Perhaps a bit too fast. It tastes so good. Add hot peppers to that. All is fine with my GI tract.

Water filter was best thing to bring.

Have to go. Time is up. Others in line.

posted by Evan @ 12:07 AM

Made it to Chennai, India.

First meal here today (Sunday). Was great. Thali. Served on a banana leaf plate. Eaten with my right hand. Glad I practiced before I left. As I am a left-handed eater.

Visited a temple. And went to the beach (Indian Ocean).

Travels took 40 hours door to door. Spent yesterday resting.

The ringing bell on my pack helped make it a better trip. It says "All will be fine." The light tinkle is a gentle reminder. Shifts me to the spirit of the journey.

posted by Evan @ 6:46 AM